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Post by Dandy Dan on Mar 21, 2007 15:29:38 GMT -5
Nice looking rotor  I really prefer that over the regular NCY one. Can you explain in a bit more detail how a floating disc works? |
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Post by Dandy Dan on Mar 21, 2007 15:30:44 GMT -5
Careful! We dont' want you getting hurt if you lock up the wheel around a corner and slide out  |
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Post by I Heard A Rukus on Mar 21, 2007 16:17:24 GMT -5
Floating discs work in that the hub stays fixed while the rotor is allowed to move or 'float'. This allows for the tiny variations in a rotor caused by heat or imperfections, warpage, etc. to not effect performance. On a normal rotor the brake pads are pushed out of the way, with a floating rotor they stay put and the rotor moves thus allowing better braking.
Keith
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Post by Dandy Dan on Mar 22, 2007 8:30:52 GMT -5
Thanks for the explanation....nice to see you pioneering this stuff for the Ruckus.
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Post by tuesdayclub on Mar 22, 2007 11:10:49 GMT -5
friggin' beautiful!
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Post by I Heard A Rukus on Mar 22, 2007 16:54:21 GMT -5
Got my shipment of NCY compatible mudguards in. Here is one fitted on my bike:   What a great design, and they are really really nice! Worth way more than $60! KP |
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Post by Blackruk on Mar 22, 2007 16:58:44 GMT -5
Looks sharp!  |
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Post by chanito on Mar 22, 2007 17:50:34 GMT -5
;D Yeah! Sanjuro did a great job with that |
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Post by I Heard A Rukus on May 31, 2007 16:21:24 GMT -5
I don't post often about my bikes but there have been some tuning sessions. I think I'm done. It runs great and idles (this is a new thing for this bike BTW). So since I'm going to be mounting the VR2 in the billet case and won't be able to pull anymore data without some work (you have to take the damn thing apart to get the cables on!) I thought I'd do two last graphs and post the results, even though the only people who care are DD, Chanito, and SJ.   Lately I've been saying that I've been tuning for real world speed and a constant reliable RPM and that really shows up in the linear nature of the curves. A nice smooth curve is important to me. You can see to that after the clutch and the belt catch up the RPMs smack into about 7400 and just keep climbing after that. This translates into a nice even power and decent pull up to top speed. 0-20 = 4.5s @ 7500 0-30 = 8.7s @ 7800 0-40 = ~16s @ 8600 Best 0-50 = about 25.5s @ 9800 What all this really means is I can get up to speed in about 10s which is bueno, and I can cruise right in the power band. That's pretty much it for now until I start on NUFAN Engine 3.0 later this summer. Smile Keith |
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Post by tuesdayclub on May 31, 2007 21:10:39 GMT -5
Looks great....I hope I can get my BB to do that one day!
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 1, 2007 8:09:15 GMT -5
0-20 = 4.5s @ 7500 0-30 = 8.7s @ 7800 0-40 = ~16s @ 8600 Thanks for sharing those graphs....I appreciate seeing them I find it interesting how your Ruckus performs pretty average up to 30mph but hauls from there. Right now I'm doing: 0-20mph = ~3 seconds 0-30mph = 7.5 seconds (8.7s stock) 0-40mph = 16 seconds (21s stock) 0-45mph = 25 seconds (n/a) Top Speed = 46-48mph. (42.5mph) Maybe the stock variator has something to do with that...at 40mph you're at 8600 RPM and I'm only at 8000 RPM so perhaps those higher revs are what keeps your Ruck accelerating so hard. Personally, I like the taller gear ratio because I feel bad when my engine is screaming away over 9K while I'm cruising but I could be worried about nothing. BTW, what jetting are you running? |
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Post by I Heard A Rukus on Jun 1, 2007 11:23:52 GMT -5
I'm running the Mollasi, and this is 100% of the current trend in RPM vs. Speed, I never got those numbers with any other variator. The Mollasi is thin, squished almost, so it revs up very fast, and the spacer on it is less then 35mm wide, it's like running a different transmission.
I'm running a 35/75 combo on the 20mm carb.
KP
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Post by chanito on Jun 1, 2007 11:30:53 GMT -5
;DNice info IHAR, how do you like the big carb? i use to hate those carbs as they acted weird under sudden acceleration, but i guess technology have improved them a lot
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Post by I Heard A Rukus on Jun 1, 2007 12:50:44 GMT -5
;DNice info IHAR, how do you like the big carb? i use to hate those carbs as they acted weird under sudden acceleration, but i guess technology have improved them a lot Compared to the Stock 06 CV carb it's amazing. The punch off the line and instant throttle response is worth it alone. Add to that the fact that my bike idles right at 2k perfectly now (something it NEVER did with the stock carb) and it's worth the money. Only 2 screws to mess with, manual choke, SUPER easy to work on. The only complaints I have are that it needed to be modified to fit right out of the box (lame) and now after only a few months of use the rubber mount is starting to dry-rot and crack. That and neither my intake nor the stock intake systems fit on the smaller inlet of the carb so I am forced to run a filter right on the back which is ok for performance but increases noise and also the filter gets fuel built up in the element and requires cleaning from time to time. KP |
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Post by chanito on Jun 1, 2007 12:57:01 GMT -5
 Yeah! hard rubber mounting use to be hard to find in the good old days of me as a rally tech, having the cable pulling the carb up and down use to beat the c%&# out of the mounts, and the rough driving did not help, the only plus we used to have was they were easy to tune, compare to the mikunis
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Post by I Heard A Rukus on Mar 12, 2008 12:33:36 GMT -5
Update - months later...
I had a head done professionally as some of you know, got that on with the new ARP bolts (thanks Chan-Man). The sound is great, higher pitch, with a bit of a pop to it, really nice. Butt dyno says nothing, but it's impossible to tell at this point if anything makes a difference I have so much done. Other additions are a velocity stack on the carb (loud, mainly for looks), and a Leo Vince Pipe. This pipe is OBNOXIOUS loud, like the RPM. With the baffle in its high pitch and loud, with the baffle out its lower and louder, but gives great punch. I've found I have better top speed with the restrictor in. Fresh oil and plug, valves spot on, decided to do a pull or two today with the Veypor. I was going to do my normal 3 but I got rolled and had to bounce.
Bested my 1/4 mile time a little, but the real change is the RPM vs. Speed, it gets there quick.
Ok, I can't get the data into VAS no matter what, stupid program. Here's Old vs. New just me pulling numbers off the Veypor
OLD:
0-10 = 2.37s @ 7232
0-20.2 = 4.79s @ 7586
0-30 = 9.17s @ 8014
0-40 = 18.14s @ 8846
0-48 = 27.52s @ 9877
NEW:
0-10.8 = 2.29s @ 7224
0-20 = 4.34s @ 7555
0-30 = 8.11s @ 7960
0-40 = 15.85s @ 8878
0-50.5 = 26.25s @ 10270
Yep
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Post by Dandy Dan on Mar 14, 2008 23:30:57 GMT -5
Yeah VAS is a little stubborn and confusing sometimes. Not the most intuitive problem.
Nice to hear what's up with your Ruck....that's a big improvement for the 0-30mph time...over a second off! Also congrats on hitting over 50mph in under the 28 second Veypor limit....I don't think I ever did that on flat.
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Post by I Heard A Rukus on Mar 16, 2008 8:00:48 GMT -5
Yeah VAS is a little stubborn and confusing sometimes. Not the most intuitive problem. Nice to hear what's up with your Ruck....that's a big improvement for the 0-30mph time...over a second off! Also congrats on hitting over 50mph in under the 28 second Veypor limit....I don't think I ever did that on flat. Thanks Dan. This was all at 40F outside too. I'm thinking of re-tuning to drop another 500 rpm and get another 5-10 mph of cruising speed, we'll see how much I ride this summer. |
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