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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 25, 2006 17:05:28 GMT -5
If it's any encouragement...my local motorcycle shop has all the tools to bore and hone my engine.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 27, 2006 9:24:37 GMT -5
I called my shop to verify that they can bore it out and hone it and they said they have the equipment to bore out stuff as small as 40mm and we're 41mm so there's no problems there. I'm planning on tearing down my engine on saturday and hopefully bringing in my case before they close at 3pm. Then I'll pick it up next saturday and start putting it back together but I'm really busy so it'll probably be the weekend after before I'm back on the road and chasing down Zuma's.
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Post by SqUiRmInAtOr/ Phred 501 on Jun 27, 2006 18:05:59 GMT -5
OK, knowing yer gonna need HIGH OCTANE to prevent preignition. How ya gonna insure thats whats going in your tank. We know the pump hose is just about gonna fill the tank, but there is no way to know what the guy ahead of us put in his vehicle. Is there a proven additive out there to mix in where we could just use regular and know were not going to be melting down our pricey latest mod?  |
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Post by jrcanoe on Jun 27, 2006 20:35:57 GMT -5
OK, knowing yer gonna need HIGH OCTANE to prevent preignition. How ya gonna insure thats whats going in your tank. We know the pump hose is just about gonna fill the tank, but there is no way to know what the guy ahead of us put in his vehicle. Is there a proven additive out there to mix in where we could just use regular and know were not going to be melting down our pricey latest mod? There are octane bosters, but I am going to buy gas at places that have single pumps for each grade. If out traveling I will just give a free gallon to someone. |
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Post by chanito on Jun 27, 2006 21:10:23 GMT -5
My solution is to put gas with the wife car so i just pump right after her and know Katrina is getting 91 octane, the compression is not high enought to have catastrofic failure dor ocasional using of regular but i would not use regular on a daily basics, but yes you will have to be carefull at pumping
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Post by timberwolfmadcat on Jun 27, 2006 21:46:18 GMT -5
My solution is to put gas with the wife car so i just pump right after her and know Katrina is getting 91 octane, the compression is not high enought to have catastrofic failure dor ocasional using of regular but i would not use regular on a daily basics, but yes you will have to be carefull at pumping My solution is to go to stations where the different grades are on different hoses  Like Mohawk 94 octane!!! |
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Post by Kami no Chiizu on Jun 27, 2006 22:39:06 GMT -5
Or pull in behind a guy with a sports or luxury car.
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Post by jrcanoe on Jun 27, 2006 23:56:33 GMT -5
Or pull in behind a guy with a sports or luxury car. Just cause you have money doesn't make you smart. I'd say there a 50% chance he is just some idiot putting in regular |
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Post by Kami no Chiizu on Jun 28, 2006 1:06:40 GMT -5
That's true... my aunt never ran high-test in her SSCEi Bonnevile...
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 28, 2006 10:50:03 GMT -5
I am going to buy gas at places that have single pumps for each grade. Wow! Thanks for bringing this up guys...I was aware of the problem that you're probably not really getting high octane when you pay for it because of the stuff in the hose but I had totally forgetten. The best solution seems to be just going to places where they have seperate pumps but you can always just look and see what the last guy put in if it's shared pump (by comparing the total cost to the total volume). As a last resort, I'd give away a free gallon. Octane boosters work but they're like a shot in the dark how much octane you're getting. Jrcanoe, Timber and Phred: Have you guys ordered your pistons yet? I've got mine and it's awesome. I've already got the time booked off with my fiance to tear my engine down saturday. |
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Post by timberwolfmadcat on Jun 28, 2006 16:25:52 GMT -5
I am going to buy gas at places that have single pumps for each grade. Wow! Thanks for bringing this up guys...I was aware of the problem that you're probably not really getting high octane when you pay for it because of the stuff in the hose but I had totally forgetten. The best solution seems to be just going to places where they have seperate pumps but you can always just look and see what the last guy put in if it's shared pump (by comparing the total cost to the total volume). As a last resort, I'd give away a free gallon. Octane boosters work but they're like a shot in the dark how much octane you're getting. Jrcanoe, Timber and Phred: Have you guys ordered your pistons yet? I've got mine and it's awesome. I've already got the time booked off with my fiance to tear my engine down saturday. Still waiting for the transfer from bank to paypal to go through Chanito, ill pay you ASAP, but could you hold off shipping it till like the 18th of july, just b/c ill be gone for 3 weeks and the post office only holds stuff so long, and i wont be putting it in right away....... |
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Post by jrcanoe on Jun 28, 2006 16:57:05 GMT -5
Jrcanoe, Timber and Phred: Have you guys ordered your pistons yet? I've got mine and it's awesome. I've already got the time booked off with my fiance to tear my engine down saturday. I sent my check but as of today the money is still sitting in my account. Hopefully it will clear soon. I'm in no rush for the piston because I don't think I can stand to be without my ruck one second this summer but that may change once I have the kit in my hot little hands; then I may be really torn and if I can't sleep well at night dreaming of the big bore I'll bite the bullet and tear down the ruck. Hopefully I can remain patient and let a few others be the Ginnie pigs and work any kinks out. |
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Post by ZOOMER46 on Jun 29, 2006 18:36:06 GMT -5
luckily here we have 95 and 97ron and even a 99,tho its not as good as the shell 97super.
i usually fill with the best i can get,but the one time i put regular,it wasnt really much different to be honest.
if adding an octane booster,how much is enough to the gallon?
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 30, 2006 9:39:58 GMT -5
Octane boosters vary a lot in strength...you really just need to read the package to figure it out.
The octane is europe is rated differently than North America because you guys use just the RON test for your octane which gives pretty high numbers where as in North America we use the RON test (high numbers) and the MON test (lower numbers) and then average the too. As a result, our ratings are about 95% of what yours are for the same gas.
The Ruckus is rated at needed 87 octane in North America but in Europe you need to give it atleast 91 RON. With the big bore pistons you need 91 octane in North America which is 96 RON in europe....so 97 would be the stuff to use except the piston doesn't work for you guys unless you convert to 2 valve.
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Post by ZOOMER46 on Jun 30, 2006 16:37:43 GMT -5
cant see the 2 valve conversion taking off!
i think the higher the number the better in general,
when we last used octane booster in the 80's (pj1 brand ),the mixing bottle would
crack and craze after a while,come to think of it,i'll leave it,just too xtreme.
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Post by chanito on Jun 30, 2006 18:20:57 GMT -5
I never consider this a problem, as there are a lot of ways to insure you are getting 91, i do not consider a necesity to use octane boosters, actually i am against them, as some of them can attack the coating on the pistons. Maybe now that DD is doing great with his tool making business he can get the four valve piston going. On the news front, i finally got my engine bore and honed, they did a great job, but it required going to two different shops, as the one where they did the boring could not do the honing, now i finded a place that can do both, anyway so tomorrow i will start putting the engine back together, i put the batteries of the camera to charge so i can take plenty of pictures. Just for info, i will note that the pistons are as high tech as they make them, so they have a eliptical shape instead of round, so they become perfectly round when hot, also the skirt diameter is bigger than the crown (where the rings are) also to ensure it will have the same diameter as it heats up, because the crown having more metal will dilate more, all this can not be seen with the naked eye, but a micrometer will allow you to see all the value of your piston as it is the very top of the line and it was decided by vote to do it that way ;D We should be able to see how good they really are in a couple of weeks 
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Post by ZOOMER46 on Jun 30, 2006 19:29:11 GMT -5
:)super work dude,obviously more to this piston design than we realised.
saw the pics of the kit, and the detail in that piston could not be any better.
hope people appreciate it,but i think some people will hold back temporarily
till its been run,or proven to last like the original would,which we know it will,
cos nobody does their homework better than chanito!
this is so ground breaking,and easily the most anticipated thing ever on R.C.
i just hope no-one does a crap bore job and then blames you for it not working,that would be a shame.
but u just know that people will then want you 2 make a big bore kit,then a supercharger,etc
......this all comes from your god like status you know !!
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Post by timberwolfmadcat on Jul 3, 2006 14:20:30 GMT -5
SWEET!!!!! Payment has been made, ill be back to pick up my Piston on the 30th or so..... Too poor to pay my mechanic at the course to help me install it, and the shop to bore it out, for now i wait.....
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Post by chanito on Jul 3, 2006 21:29:17 GMT -5
Thanks timber, i will mail the kit by the end of July so it will there waiting for you ;D Wednesday i will put frankie (my big bore engine) together so hopefully i can ride Katrina by the weekend with the big bore on her ;D ;D
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jul 4, 2006 10:33:44 GMT -5
These pistons are definately an art piece...I should order an extra one just to hang on the wall but my fiance would kill me.
Anyways, I tore my engine apart this saturday in anticipation of the big bore piston. I've been in the engine before when I replaced the crankshaft on my 2003 Ruckus so things went smoothly. The full job took me 3 hours...the first hour I got the engine out, then it took me another 30min to have the head off and another hour to totally disassemble the engine and then the final 30 min to clean up. Even if you've got no experience....as long as you have the shop manual I can't see this taking more than 6hrs.
I'm guessing it'll take about twice as long to reassemble it as it takes to disassemble it because you need to be checking to make sure everything is put together properly and you need to be accurately torquing the bolts and applying sealant etc.
My engine is hopefully getting dropped off at the shop today and should be ready for reassembly on Saturday...I wonder if it'll be hard to get the new rings compression to get in.
Anyways, here's some tips/notes:
- Drain your oil and coolant first things...once you start tearing stuff apart it only gets harder
- Make sure you have everything disconnected from the engine before you disconnect the shock and main mount. This includes the carb, fuel hose, coolant reseviour, wiring to the alternator etc. It's not that hard because you just want to make sure there are no wires or hoses going from the engine/swingarm to the main frame.
- Support the front of the scooter with blocks...if you do this and get it at the right height it's a lot easier to disconnect the shock and pull out the engine/swingarm.
- The alternator (under the flywheel) uses allan keys / hex sockets (about 5mm) so make sure you have these. I used a metric hex socket but it was very close to stripping out....I've not got metric ones for the reassembly.
- Make sure you've got a flywheel puller tool. The Honda one is about $25 and it works great. The flywheel on my 2003 Ruckus was stuck on there very good and I ended up needing a hammer to wack the puller tool several times. With my 2006 I was amazed when my flywheel popped off while I was just snugging up the puller by hand so it's really tough to say how well you're is gonna be on there.
- You're 100% gonna need a variator tool/universal holder tool. You need to remove your variator to unbolt the drive case but then you need to put it back on so you can use this tool to hold the crankshaft still while you unbolt the chain sprocket from the camshaft and again when you take the flywheel nut off. My flywheel nut was on there VERY tight and ended up needed a cheater bar to get it off. Be nice to your variator tool when you do this because it's a LOT of stress on it so you main pivot needs to be tight and it must be pulling totally straight...if it's at an angle it'll twist the metal.
- Keep your engine parts indoors...you don't want them rusting
- Slop engine or and/or assembly lube on everything as you reassemble it.
- Make sure you reset your cam chain tensioner when you reassemble. You'll need a tiny flat bladed screwdriver and you turn it in the opposite direction you'd normally turn it so heads up for that...it's backwards.
- Don't try this without a shop manual....it's so helpful and otherwise you're just asking for trouble. It tells you everything like how to setup your timing right.
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