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Post by quebec on May 4, 2006 6:19:28 GMT -5
A question. If you just relocating the pick up coil 2 or 3 degree to advance the timing, that will do the same thing as the cdi without removing the rev limiter? Some "gain" with that mod?
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Post by Dandy Dan on May 4, 2006 8:16:05 GMT -5
Yeah it should do the same thing as long as you know what you're doing and don't move it too much but you could also just get a CDI and not rev your Ruckus past 40mph.
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Post by chanito on May 4, 2006 22:22:47 GMT -5
I am not surprise that they say it should go from day one, as they have always said so, however my experience have been awful with synthetics on engine break in, and the only synthetic i ever use was Mobil one, so I DO NOT RECOMMEND BREAKING AN ENGINE IN WITH MOBIL ONE, actually i never find a need for using synthetic, other than everyone thinking that they are better than the regular stock, yes they are better than stock over time, but if you change your oil regularly you are just making the people from Mobil richer, but if you only change your oil when the planets align and your mood is right, then do use synthetic, if you believe all the statements made by Mobil, then we would not need any other mod than just changing engine oil I was going to play with the timing by elongating the mounting holes on the sensor, but it will require an engine dyno (not a chassis dyno) to really do it right, as the compression on our engine is really high, going to much advance can really damage the piston easily, also you will need some plastic feeler gauges to use the distance from the reluctor as a tuning aid, a couple of degrees is not much so it can be easily overdone, so be safe and do very little at a time
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ZoomZoom
Ruckster
'05 Ruckus, '97 Polaris 400L 4X4
Posts: 251
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Post by ZoomZoom on May 5, 2006 0:00:32 GMT -5
I have to agree with chanito on the oil. The only place I use synthetic oil is in my gearcase and diff on my truck as they go for longer periods of time between changes. Come to think of it now, my latest diff oil change was with normal gear oil...hmmm
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Post by crazy88 on May 9, 2006 17:08:01 GMT -5
Noob questions:
After 15min of riding, off the line acceleration seems to lag. Any solution to this?
I know my oil is too high, when I unscrewed the airbox, oil leaked out. But whenever I try using the dipstick to see how much oil I have, the oil always comes up to an inch below the threads of the handle.(obviously thats way high) Could it be that the sidewalls of the dipstick tube are oily?
Also, I live at 5000ft elevation, If I installed a Briggs & Stratton airfilter, would I need to make any adjustments, or would I be fine since im at a higher elevation.
Im performing my first oil change on the scooter next weekend. If I put in exactly 0.6L of oil into the Ruckus and possibly install a B&S airfilter, should I see slightly less lag and get my top speed a tad over 33mph on flats?
Thanks for your help, If I can see the answers to these questions, ill be more confident about doing everything next week.
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Post by chanito on May 9, 2006 18:14:07 GMT -5
Installing a B&S air filter should help you out at the high altitude, also one of the worst things for performance is having a high oil level, so changing your oil and just putting the right amount sometimes is a performance booster, so yes you should do OK ;D ;D
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bango707
Junior Ruckster
Southern Cali Ruk Rider!
Posts: 66
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Post by bango707 on May 9, 2006 19:59:20 GMT -5
How does one go about gearing a variator? And if lighter weights means faster acceleration then does heavier weights mean slower acceleration but more MPH? I would love to find a happy medium if there is such a thing? Actually I want both!
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Post by chanito on May 10, 2006 6:30:14 GMT -5
You answer most of your questions, installing lighter rollers makes your engine spin faster before going into higher gears, but sometimes you can go too light to get enought centrifugal force to open the front pulley totally so you loose top speed, most agree on a set of 6 grams weight (rollers) as the best compromise of accel and top speed
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Post by hammer on Jun 26, 2006 15:25:42 GMT -5
Question: Rich/Lean. I live in denver and want to take the whole restriction off the air flow (bottom hole in the air filter intake), just want to open it up. can I do this and is anyone at high alititude that has done this? I want to know what jet I should/could use. will this increase my speed any? I will be installing a variator at the same time so I know this will do the trick but wonder if its worth doing the jet. I did open up the box a bit using a drill and putting 2 1/4 inch holes under there. then I got greedy and tried to open the whole thing up. ran very lean... so I have tape under there and 2 holes poked....nothing nice... greed!!!!
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 26, 2006 15:44:21 GMT -5
You can definately rejet to make it work better with an unrestricted open but it will take a bit of time. I just posted a 'How to Dial in your Jetting' thread in the 'How to' section that tells you how to go about this. Since your altitude is high you've got less oxygen so you'll also need a bit less gas that others. Very likely you'll need a 38 slow jet and then your main jet might be okay or you might need to tweak it a bit. If you ride around with the 38 slow jet for a while and then remove your spark plug and look at you'll be able to tell if you need more or less gas because black = too much gas and white = not enough. Dial it in that way.
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Post by hammer on Jun 30, 2006 12:13:01 GMT -5
Quick Question: Was thinking about changing out the variator this weekend. Live in the mtns and read about the 5.5g weights, think thats my choice. Does anyone know the dimensions so I can purchase them on Miamimoto? Also, are there directions on how to shave down the spacers? Is that the only thing I need to do? What are spacers? By changing the weights and shaving the variator somewhere should be equivelent to a new one correct? Please help. Thank you!! ;D
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 30, 2006 12:38:49 GMT -5
The weights will make you rev higher as you accelerate because they upshift slower but a shortened spacer will gear you taller across the board so that will cancel out your small acceleration gains. The result of doing both is probably similar acceleration but a bit more top end.
I'd suggest going with 6g weights over 5.5g just because 5.5g is pushing it and getting really close to being too light. The difference in acceleration is negliable but your risk of losing some top end is definately higher. Regardless, you need weights that are 16x13mm.
To shave down the spacer just disassemble your variator and you'll see the spacer...it's a long metal tube...just file maybe 2mm off one end and you're done. It's hard metal though so I'm not sure what's best to use. A file might do it if you have a really good one.
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Post by chanito on Jun 30, 2006 18:37:41 GMT -5
6grams seem like the perfect weight before losing top speed, i just went back to 7.5 as i have a stock variator with shaved specer and nose on the outher face, hopefully with the big bore piston i will have enough torque to accel quicker and get as much top speed as i can
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Post by chanito on Jul 25, 2006 19:56:36 GMT -5
OK i jut have a hard time understanding Torque and Horse Power, Can you just explain so we can understand? I will try, but is hard so please stay with me, i think a silly story can be use to illustrate this better, so here it goes (i hope DD does not get upset about this ) Dandy Dan variator tool business is doing great, so good in fact that he need to find a way to carry his tools to the shipping place, and since he is an Eco friendly guy decide to buy two horse drawn carts instead of a polluting pick-up, now when he goes to buy the horses, they only have two different kinds of horses that eat about the same amount of hey, so he buys a race horse known as "lakebiscuit" and a Clydesdale (the one in the Budweiser commercials) known as "el capitan". So he starts to make and sell tools like a mad man and really put the horses and carts to work, being that he is a very smart guy, and takes a lot of notes he figure out a lot of stuff about the horses and the amount of tools they can carry (pay attention now) If he loads 100 tools in the cart "lakebiscuit" can not move the cart any more, on the other hand "el capitan" can still pull the cart with up to 200 tools, so he concludes the "capitan" is stronger and have more force (torque is a force, so "el capitan" have twice the torque of "lakebiscuit"), but no matter what he does, "el capitan" will not run just trot, "lakebiscuit" on the other hand, loves to run. If he just load the carts with 50 tools, he can go from his factory to the shipping place two times in an hour if he uses "lakebiscuit", but "el capitan" will take the full hour for just one trip, and since most of the time the shipping is just 50 units, "lakebiscuit" does twice the WORK of "el capitan" so he has twice the horsepower I hope this explain it good enough for you guys to understand, if not i will you and
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jul 26, 2006 7:58:32 GMT -5
Thanks Chanito....so hp basically considers torque and RPM because torque isn't really useful if you're torque peaks at a very low RPM so at cruising speeds you don't have any.
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dano1
Junior Ruckster
My "other" Weekend Honda
Posts: 54
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Post by dano1 on Jul 26, 2006 10:44:22 GMT -5
One way to comprehend torque is to keep in mind an electric motor can generate torque without rotation (unlike our reciprocating gasoline engines). Mind you it isn't all that good for the motor, but this always helped me differentiate H.P. & Torque.
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Post by chanito on Jul 26, 2006 19:18:13 GMT -5
No, torque is a FORCE and HP is how efficient you can use that force, so if you have a lot of force but can not use it, is wasted, but also if you have no force then no matter how efficient your engine is, you can not do much
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Post by timberwolfmadcat on Jul 30, 2006 22:09:26 GMT -5
No, torque is a FORCE and HP is how efficient you can use that force, so if you have a lot of force but can not use it, is wasted, but also if you have no force then no matter how efficient your engine is, you can not do much Thats just about the best explaination out there TORQUE IS A FORCE HP IS HOW EFFECIENTLY YOU USE THE FORCE hehe starwars
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Post by chanito on Jul 31, 2006 4:19:54 GMT -5
:)the force is strong in you young Jedi
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Post by Jasper on Jul 31, 2006 10:46:14 GMT -5
I know you have somehow exaplained my following question but i still wanna ask, why is it common when you replace you stock air filter in a car with a cold air intake, you might lose torque but gain horsepower?
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