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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 16, 2005 0:41:23 GMT -5
I can get any measurement we'll need on the 2 valve stock cam and on the H.O. cam. Just let me know. I emailed Wiseco today about pistons etc. and what they currently have but I doubt they'd have something perfect. Ideally Abe would finish that custom piston he was working on. So all we need to find out is the cam measurement for the euro head and get a piston from somewhere. Abe mentioned once that if he does get a big bore thing goin he'd probabably offer bigger valves too. Because the diameter would be bigger these new valves might be able to outflow the 4 valves. However it would be much harder too do and likely more expensive. It would be so nice if we could get our engines up to 60cc and a with a 4 valve head in one shot.
That PAR valve nipple is good news as it's not neccesary so regardless of whether it has one it's not a big deal.
We really need to get in touch with someone in europe who's soupin up their F.I. ruckus. If you don't get the US cam measurements soon I post them friday morning. I won't be home until then. Thanks for the 2 valve vs. 4 explaination.
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Post by chanito on Jun 16, 2005 21:41:12 GMT -5
:)That would be nice Dandy, i am going to try and twist some arms over the other side of the Atlantic to get those measurements They should be the outside diameter of both the bearings and the total length of the cam ;D
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 17, 2005 11:35:24 GMT -5
Sorry I forget to measure it when it was out this morning and I won't be home until late tonight. I'll get those measurement tomorrow morning.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 18, 2005 14:16:23 GMT -5
Ok here's the measurements for the stock cam:
Length of camshaft excluding nipple on exhaust end: 46.56mm or 1.833" Length of camshaft with nipple (grand total): 50.34mm or 1.982" Diameter of small bearings (intake end): 23.99mm or .944" Diameter of larger bearings (exhaust end): 36.99mm or 1.457" Intake lobe min/max diameters: 25.19mm/29.28mm Exhaust lobe min/max diameters: 25.11/29.28mm
Anything else you need just ask. The lobe size of the H.O. cam is available on the third page of the 'camshaft' thread.
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Post by chanito on Nov 5, 2005 9:36:41 GMT -5
:)I decided to bump this to the front, because i had a lot of info i want to put together, and if you have any question post it so we can try to answer
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Post by chanito on Nov 5, 2005 20:31:48 GMT -5
Question.- If the ruckus transmission is automatic, why i keep reading about a clutch? Answer.- Once you start your ruckus you will not turn it off until you get to your destination, but at some times along the road you will get to a complete stop, and since your engine is turning around nicely you need a way to disconnect your driving wheel from the engine, therefore you need a clutch, the one in your car is a hydraulic coupling call the torque converter, and in you ruckus is a centrifugal clutch, this clutch uses two brake shoes being keep close together by a couple of springs and are being rotates around by the engine trough the transmission (variator belt) when they are rotate fast enough the centrifugal force will separate these brake shoes outward overcoming the springs until they contact an outside drum which is connected to the wheel, when they rotate fast enough the shoes will start rotating the drum and the driving wheel (in our ruckus the rear wheel) if you change the spring rates you will also change the speed at which the rear tire will start moving the scooter (this is call roll out speed and in the ruckus is between 3k and 3.5k rpms) this is a very useful tuning adjustment in two cycle engines but not so in our torquier 4-cycle engine, maybe if you mod your engine heavy enough to significantly change your torque curve you may get some advantage by going to different spring, but if not leave them alone
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Post by chanito on Nov 5, 2005 21:02:03 GMT -5
Question.- Funny i keep reading about a single big spring in the clutch, so What is this big spring? Answer.-That big spring has nothing to do with the clutch, but is in the same end of the variator, it is use to keep a constant tension on the belt, the rear pulley in the variator is closed by this spring, when the front pulley is close by the weight (rollers) the belt ride lower in the pulley and compress this spring, so the stronger the spring the harder will be for the rollers to go out, needing heavier weights to go out all the weight, but also the heavier spring will force the rollers in quicker making the scooter respond more to throttle input by getting it in a lower gear faster, they tend to wear the belts faster and sometimes do not allow you to get to top speed if you put too strong a spring, if you do a lot of stop and go it is a mod worth looking into it, but if you do most of your driving at full speed it might actually be a bad idea
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Post by chanito on Nov 7, 2005 21:48:29 GMT -5
Question.- What is this PAIR valve and why some people take it off, Does it affect performance? A.- PAIR stand for pulse air intake recirculation (re-burning according to some). When the exhaust exit an engine it creates low pressure for a little while, then goes to positive pressure, so they use this Pulse to pump air into the exhaust to oxidize the exhaust so the hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide will recombine into carbon dioxide (a harmless gas) and water vapor, the way to use this pulse is using a metal one way valve so when the exhaust pressure is negative it will allow air into the exhaust, but when the pressure is positive it will close, preventing exhaust to go into the atmosphere without passing through the muffler, the fun part is that this pulse actuates this valve only at idle and very low engine speed because at high engine speed this pulse happens too fast to open the valve so it remains close, therefore it will not affect the performance of the engine, but it does a nice job of cleaning the exhaust and protect the environment
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Post by chanito on Nov 8, 2005 5:30:48 GMT -5
No questions?
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kzuckus
Junior Ruckster
"Look, Sir, Droids."
Posts: 83
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Post by kzuckus on Nov 8, 2005 8:18:29 GMT -5
I have the following mods: Shaved spacer/variator, B&S air filter. Will I notice a performance boost with a CDI?
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Post by Dandy Dan on Nov 8, 2005 9:00:48 GMT -5
Do you notice a bit of lag off the line now that your spacer is shaved cuz you are starting off in a bit of a taller gear? I won't steal Chanito's glory by giving you a full explanation but I doubt it'll do much because a CDI is pretty independant of other mods. It'll give you maybe 1% more power cuz it advances the ignition timing and it also eliminates the redline so unless you are hitting the redline then only difference should be a largely unnoticable tiny power increase.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Nov 8, 2005 10:38:56 GMT -5
Here's a question:
I see in a lot of pictures people with aftermarket POD type filters attach them to the end of the hose that normally goes from the airbox to the carb. However, I've seen some people shorten this hose and still others put it right on the back of the carb. I'm ordering the gauze Pod filter from the BSS cuz I like how it looks at it's the cheapest but I'm undecided how to mount it. I really like the look when it's attached directly on to the carb and it would keep it dry if I got caught out in some rain. What I'm wondering is, is there some airflow advantage to having the hose and if so how much do I need and is the difference significant. Could I just have like a 4" hose but use the part that comes off the carb and has that mushroom shaped appendage? Your thoughts??
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Post by chanito on Nov 8, 2005 19:12:36 GMT -5
I had the biggest buyer remorse when i bought the CDI, in all honesty i knew it was not going to do anything for me, because i shaved the variator and the nose in the outer face, that i was nowhere near the 8k rev limiter at full throttle, so i was going to get the rear shock but at the last minute i thought that maybe the CDI will get me the power to get to 8k, it did not. but if you are hitting the rev limiter quite frequently then is a good idea to get a CDI, if not, you will be disappointed
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Post by timberwolfmadcat on Nov 8, 2005 19:27:50 GMT -5
Q: Do i need to rejet my carb in the winter?
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Post by chanito on Nov 8, 2005 19:34:51 GMT -5
:)By the way DD feel free to post some answers here, i actually welcome your input as you can explain this matters clearer than i can. Anyway, the pod type air filters are nice as they have a large amount of filtering room so they flow better than stock even when they are dirty, i still think that the go kart filter i installed in mine is the best option due to its lower price and way more filtering area, CV carburetors are very sensitive to air pulses so in order to have a nice smooth operation they relay in calm air, that is why the intake in the stock set up has a very smooth and gradual curve into the resonance chamber (the big triangular shape where the air filter is) and to kill any stubborn pulses they added a damper (the mushroom shape in the intake hose), adding a filter before this hose is the smartest and easiest way to do it, because you retain all this pulse killer air intake, removing this intake creates a weird acting carburetor that is not very consistent, and some days work great and some others do not, specially at part throttle, so unless you are ready to deal with a temperamental carb DO NOT INSTALL THE FILTER STRAIGHT TO THE CARB, fabricate some kind of intake, use the factory one, or some silicone air hose, but use some kind of air chamber
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Post by chanito on Nov 8, 2005 19:40:28 GMT -5
Do i need to re jet the carb in the winter? Answer.- if the temps are constantly close to 0 degrees Celsius (32 Fahrenheit) yes, normally a jet in the next size up will make the scooter run smoother during the winter months, just remember to change the oil when you go back down to your fair weather jet
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kzuckus
Junior Ruckster
"Look, Sir, Droids."
Posts: 83
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Post by kzuckus on Nov 8, 2005 20:29:13 GMT -5
I have noticed hitting the rev limiter alot lately, I ride WOT most of the time. I am going to try the CDI, other later mods will hopefully make it worth it.
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Post by Jasper on Nov 8, 2005 21:24:13 GMT -5
lol..most of these question must have been answered, but just to sum it all up...please...how do you apply vinyls like 50RR stickers? do you really have to shave off the top section of the aftermarket rear shock (POP chrome and red) to make it fit? anything else to do to make it fit like removing the rear fender? whats underneath the transmission case, like when i want to replace the variator will the kick starter fall apart and screw me up? Is an impact wrench useful in tightening the aftermarket variator? is there a specific amount of torque needed for this? What grams should i use in the aftermarket variator that will improve acceleration but never touch the rev limiter? Even though the front tires are rested on a wooden stick already, but why do i have to park so teh tires don't touch the ground and rests on a something like wood for storage? should i fill the ruckii up or leave the gas near empty? how do you install a 2006 speedo? is there any other way to buy jets other from BSS? do you have to remove the entire floor panel to access the carbs and engine? hehehe these are some questions im always wondering, you don't have to answer them lol
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ZoomZoom
Ruckster
'05 Ruckus, '97 Polaris 400L 4X4
Posts: 251
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Post by ZoomZoom on Nov 9, 2005 1:26:34 GMT -5
I can reply about the POP shock. While I was able to install it as is, it was rubbing on the bike frame, it's plastic so it would wear itself anyway but I decided to take the grinder to it and slightly grind it. The best way to apply the 50RR sticker in my opinion would be to remove the backing.
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Post by chanito on Nov 9, 2005 6:33:36 GMT -5
! Lots of questions. First thing first, the easiest way to stick vinyl stickers is to lightly wet the surface with soapy water, then apply the sticker with light pressure and when you are satisfied with the position just squeelly the water away from under the sticker; About the shock appears that the shock might need to be trimmed a little bit, but i heard that some people did not have a problem so it might be some of those problems that have to do with case by case scenario ; under the variator cover is the kick starter, but unless you really want to take it apart it will remain safely in position, so no worries there ;D; Yes you can use an impact to tighten the nut in the variator, but since impacts can also damage the end of the crank very easily a torque wrench is a much smarter choice, the variator nut is tighten to 24 lb-ft and the clutch to 29 ft-lbs; The rollers weight depends on the variator you are using so i can not help you there ; The idea behind leaving the wheels off the ground when you are not using your scooter is to prevent them from develop flat spots that can create vibration later on; You should fill your tank and put some additive before you store the scooter to prevent fumes and vapor to rust the tank from the inside; About the speedo, we have to wait until somebody does it to find out how hard or easy it is; You can buy jets from your dealer but is way more expensive than buying a kit from BSS; And yes unless you cut it, you will have to remove the entire floor pan to work on the engine or carb, i tried flipping it over and hold it with a rubber band to the front but it was super uncomfortable, so way better to just take it out
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