help with overall speed

You might squeeze a few more KMPH with some Boppers.

Yeah I agree. For sure you're losing a couple km/hr with those tires. I suspect the valve shims are to blame for the rest but it could be your carb. For the valve shims, if your gaps are too big (lack of power and maybe buzzing at high speeds) you can cut little shims out of your feeler gauge to put under the stockers to test out how smaller gaps affect things. This is a pretty ghetto fix but it works good for not buying a lot of shims and only needed a couple of em. Once you get it right you can buy the right shims.

When you say aftermarket filter you mean like a POD filter right? Not a lawnmower filter for the stock box. I think from your pics I recall seeing the POD filter. Anyways, an 85 could be slightly rich up top depending on where you live but unless it's pretty hot I think it's your best bet. You could try an 80 but you'll need even more shim and a couple loops off the diaphram spring. If you've got a lot of free time give it a shot. Don't bother shimming or clipping with the 80 just see how it runs above 50km/hr. If it's better than you can worry about dialing it in for the full RPM range.

Phred: I've got a T-shirt that says the same thing as your quote (Know Jesus Know life etc...) from back when I was a councillour at a Bible camp.

Try the stock jet, stock air box, no shim, and the lawn mower air filter. My Ruckus always runs the fastest with the best throttle response with the stock jetting? It only sounded louder with opening up the air box, shimming, and jetting.

If you aren't going faster with the POD filter instead of the stock airbox then there's something wrong with your carb set up.

Vely intevesting I think you caved too quick on the jetting game. Without shimming the needle you lose acceleration @ mid throttle, but without removing the rev limiter (cdi) & shavin the spacer for a tad higher gear you might not beat a stocker @ top speed head to head. The lighter roller weights should make you quicker than a stocker off the line but won't do squat for top speed.(some claim to lose top speed) A tach helps you see what's happening. Your the first guy here that hasn't seen an improvement with more air and gas. It's a little tricky but it works. ;D All these folks can't be lyin. Tinker On!!Try,try again

I tried 80, 85, 90, 95, shimmend, unshimmend, and doubled shimmend. Nothing got me over 37 mph thats where I am stock. Maybe my gear ratio is higher or something because if I turn my head sideways while I am riding I can hear the enigne slamming against the rev limiter so even in stock form. I get the impression that the little engine wants to go more but is being held back by the cdi not the carb or intake. I am waiting on a CDI and Daytona variator I have ordered and will see what speeds I can get up to with those and the stock carb,intake setup.

k did a couple of test runs with a fellow rucker here's the results.

stock(with shimmed needle and opened up stock airbox)

VS

aftermarket rucker( cdi, shimmed needle,k/n filter,daytona variator,roller weights, knobby tires)

off the hop i beat him in acceleration by almost 10-12 ruck lengths, but when we both hit the mid range, 40-50's we stay somewhat the same.
on a straightaway i top 59-60 he does 56-7.

so i am definately faster than before but only in terms of acceleration, just not busting over 60-1 km. which i would like or thought i would get.

question 1. so i shaver the plastic piece a bit for the shim to fit , if I take the 1mm shim out it will still work effectively right?

question 2. with the jetting i tried 80 and it was bogging to get to 30, 85 seemed fine but have yet to try 90.

question 3. why would excess oil hamper top speed? i put a tiny fraction less than the suggested amount of litre from the site, but i took out about 10 half straw lengths out this afternoon, see what happens tomorrow.

I used to hit the light so past the 60km mark before the filter,variator,shock changes. I had only a cdi at this time.

hmmmmmmmmmmmm

The stock airbox is tuned to meet the air requirements of the stock head. The head is restricted by the valve size, the cam and the port size. When you mess with the intake you can add more flow at lower RPMs but the previously listed factors are really the bottleneck at higher RPMs so intake mods don't do much above 35mph. Because of this you can nicely boost performance off the line with these mods but you won't get too much of an increase at the top end. If all you do is open up the airbox or add a aftermarket filter you likely won't do better than 38-39mph.

The CDI does work some magic. The Ruckus just feels like it wants to keep going instead of dying off around 35mph. Let us know what your results are with the CDI and variator. Maybe install them one at a time so you can see what difference each makes.

I really doubt you're hitting the rev limiter at 37mph. That would be pretty far off and if it was the case you'd hear the occasion loud bang as your scoot backfires. On a normal Ruckus that happens around 41-42mph. It is possible but it seems unlikely.

As for now go with the lowest carb jet that gives you 37mph as that will give you the best fuel economy.

The PAIR valves should be a non-issue. Don't worry about them. It could be that there's an air leak somewhere but I'd guess it's just not tuned right. If you really think there's a leak you can buy some ether and spray it everyone but in the intake and if you hear it come alive you'll know the air is leaking somewhere.

I'd say 85 is your best bet for a main jet but you may be able to get away with an 80 if you add a lot of shim and shorten the spring. A new spring is 5-6$ at your Honda dealer. I doubt you'd want a 90. I was running a 90 previously but that was in the middle of winter. I'd try the 80 and see if it's as fast as the 85 for top speed. If it is then you'll get better fuel economy with the 80. You will need to do extensive shimming and clipping though because of the heads breathing restrictions at higher RPMs. One way to make it easier to tune is to put really light rolller weights in so that you're always running between 7-8K. This is a lazy way to do it but you'd only need to tune it for a small slice of the range. You would need less shimming and clipping with this cuz you don't really use the low RPMs. It would still suck at say 4k but you'd only be there for a sec so it wouldn't be as big of a deal.