ratpak07
Ruckster
All unattended persons will be towed away at owners expense. l.a.m.c. 1324.8435
Posts: 146
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Post by ratpak07 on Apr 19, 2005 23:30:31 GMT -5
HOW OFTEN SHOULD I CHANGE THE OIL, AND WILL SYNTHETIC OIL HELP??
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Post by abe on Apr 20, 2005 6:29:35 GMT -5
Keep it clean. Follow the recommended interval or do better. You can use Syn after you break it in real good. I'm a serious Mobil 1 freak. It works anyone who says otherwise...... I'll scrap  |
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Post by zoomerman on Apr 20, 2005 9:07:31 GMT -5
"You can use Syn after you break it in real good."
could you suggest how many miles that would be ? I was thinking 1200 miles or 2000 km
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ratpak07
Ruckster
All unattended persons will be towed away at owners expense. l.a.m.c. 1324.8435
Posts: 146
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Post by ratpak07 on Apr 20, 2005 18:00:58 GMT -5
thanx dude
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Post by abe on Apr 23, 2005 7:51:30 GMT -5
"You can use Syn after you break it in real good." could you suggest how many miles that would be ? I was thinking 1200 miles or 2000 km \ I hate to say. Let me say bad things no one shall repeat  Stick up for me Chanito I run the motor right past the first and second recommended change interval. I add if needed and of course I check and adjust everything but I ignore the change interval. My belief is the first is to catch an engine failure before it gets worse. Well, I don't want to save a bad motor I want a new one! Running a little past the second allows the engine to get some extra wear. Once you start running Mobil 1 the wear stops so you want to get some wear in the motor. Now, all you mechanics can tell me how stupid I am but that's what I do and I'm not changing for anybody  Really flame me on this one guys but that's what I do and I stand behind it. I do break the motor in soft as far as operating it so you can't hassle me too much |
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Post by chanito on Apr 23, 2005 15:42:49 GMT -5
 This is one of those "it works for me", i am one of those who recommend an early oil change, becouse when they machine a NEW engine some shaving is bound to get stuck somewhere, and then the vibration of the engine is going to get it loose, so doing it early is just a way to get it out with that first oil change, or you can just wait and see if it creates any damage before the warranty runs out and then go to the dealer and say "this engine is a piece of S*(#.!", and get a new one, anyway this is Chanito's theory change the oil at 100 miles then at a 600 miles after that, use a good quality oil and change the oil with the engine warm (it is very important to ensure all the old oil leaves your engine), torque the oil plug and screen cover, buy or borrow a measuring cup and put just 0.6 lt (i used a measuring cup from my wife cake making parafhernalia, and almost got killed for it). Using Mobil 1 or a syntethic oil is a good idea not becouse they stop wear (they do not), but becouse they retain its lubricating qualities long after the other ones have loose theirs. But Abe theory has work for him and i belive he knows what he is doing, so i back him up on his a hundred percent, now an amazing story from my past, way back when the dinosaurs roamed this earth i had to make a header for a race engine and room did not allow us to install the normal 4 into 2 into 1 header, so i had to design and make a 4 into one, i ask around, and a lot of people told me to make the collector (the piece where the 4 pipes become one) so that the pipes entering the collector where arranged in a clockwise position acording to the firing order, some other told me in a counterclockwise and some others told me it did not matter, however the majority was for clockwise with the #1 in the first quadrant, so i went to great effort to route the pipes in order to get it like that, the header worked great, even though my logic told me it should not make a difference, in all honesty i did not make one counterclockwise os random, but if i ever have to do another i will do it like that 
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Post by chanito on May 5, 2005 15:18:12 GMT -5
 I am surprise this topic have not got any comments, and this is something we all should have an opinion on
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Post by SpoonKiller on May 5, 2005 16:16:21 GMT -5
I use Mobil1 0-40 in the car and 5-30 in the truck... so I guess I'll be using Mobil1 in the Ruck when 600 mile marker rolls by.
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Post by jimthejet on May 5, 2005 19:48:20 GMT -5
;D I agree with Abe and Chanito, break it in first and then use the synthetic. The period is a balance between getting the manufacturing shavings and the intial wear particles out early and giving the parts time to seat properly. Both methods have their obvious benefits.
The engine manufacturers have a cleanliness test they call the Millipore test (named after the filter paper they use) where the engine parts are rinsed with liquid freon through a filter in a funnel into a beaker. A vacuum is applied to the filter paper to draw the liquid off. The particles are weighed and measured to see if they meet the specification limits.
You'd be surprised at what is in a casting that looks clean. And, you'd want those particles out right away!
I use synthetic in all engines, motorcycle, scooter, jetski and auto, and it pays in reduced engine wear / rebuild frequency. I generally double the factory-recommended change period, but basically you can tell visually by the color change when it is time to drain it.
One last piece of advice: don't use synthetic when rebuilding an engine, it retards the break-in time, and in some cases rings will never seat.
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Post by wainair on May 5, 2005 20:25:58 GMT -5
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Post by chanito on May 10, 2005 15:56:18 GMT -5
The oiling need of racing engine ARE WAY DIFFERENT FROM OILING NEEDS OF STREET ENGINES, having said that is way safer to just ride an street engine normally an at different rpms thru the break in period (just normal driving is peachy), also get in the habit of changing it (the oil) at a nice interval (600 miles acording to the manufacturer) waiting for the oil to get dark might be too much. Also everybody here pray to the syntethic oil god, i on the other hand think that if you change your oil on a regular bases, Mobil 1 is just overkill, now if you just change your oil when the planets are in aligment, then use Mobil 1 or any syntethic oil by all means, ther my two cents |
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Post by scootspeed on May 11, 2005 8:08:18 GMT -5
try one of the racing kart oils. FHS, cool power, etc.
they are very good oils, and also add h.p.
these kart racers get 9hp out of 5hp briggs. it is all
about reduced friction and attention to detail. i built
briggs for years, so i will apply so of the same
principals to the ruckus. change oil often.
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Post by chanito on May 11, 2005 8:40:20 GMT -5
Kart 4 cycle engine racing oils are organic base oils, they are very even at lubricating over a large temp range, great idea for an air cooled engine, the problem is they tend to carbon up easily, not a problem in a splash lube system like a 5 hp Briggs (250 cc, by the way, lots more torque) but an awfully bad idea in a pressure system like ours, it will send those little carbon bits (that just sit at the bottom of the sump in a Briggs) to meet the main bearings in our ruckus and that is not a good thing I used to race 4 cycle go karts and had a lot of fun, but i stopped when they started racing with alcohol, i still have my Margay kart in my tool shed, i should, take it out and run it again
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Post by Robo-Mod on Jul 19, 2005 12:28:29 GMT -5
So, I should just use Mobil1 from like a gas station? Which weight?
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jul 19, 2005 13:37:58 GMT -5
You could use mobil 1 from a gas station but I suggest buying a gallon jug. That'll do you for about 6 changes. I use 15w50 but that is erring on the safe side. The manual suggests 10w30 for temps -15C to 30C (5F - 85F), 10w40 for -15C and up, 20w40 for temps 0C and up (+35F) and 20w50 for temps 0C to way up. I run my engine for extended periods at high RPMs so I like to be on the thick side of things to be safe. 10w40 is probably a good choice for most people.
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Post by chanito on Jul 19, 2005 19:08:30 GMT -5
:)DandyDan knows oil  |
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Post by honda-zoomer2005-DK on Aug 1, 2005 16:17:23 GMT -5
hi all
I am from denmark and i do not got a oil scheduled Maitenance chart, can
anyone mail me one?
and i would like to get a "owner’s manual" and a "service manual"
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greendale
Junior Ruckster
2005 green four valve fuel injected Zoomer. Variator, Showa shock, kick stand, Metzeler tires.
Posts: 70
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Post by greendale on Aug 1, 2005 16:32:52 GMT -5
Hey, another Scandinavian.
Have you checked under your seat? I think they place the owners manual in that little compartment sometimes.
The manual says to change the oil first at 1000 km and then at 4000 km, 8000 km, 12000 km and so on.
A service manual would be nice though.
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kzuckus
Junior Ruckster
"Look, Sir, Droids."
Posts: 83
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Post by kzuckus on Aug 18, 2005 10:45:53 GMT -5
I think I will change my oil soon (140 miles now) '
cause I am getting ready to drive it 50 miles round trip a day. I will use a 10-30 to start, since it is normally 80's in the morning and 100-110's daily here right now. Do you think I should go with a 20-40?
As for synthetic, I use Mobil 1 in my SRT-4, since that is what is called out in my manual.
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Post by chanito on Aug 18, 2005 19:04:41 GMT -5
Most car manufacturers are going the synthetic oil way so they can claim less maintenance is required, but a lot more manufacturers are doing the break in period at the Dino before installing the engine in the car, so they have more longevity, that said they can use the synthetic from the get go, but for us is not a good idea, we need the rings to expand and seat properly to break in our motors, so stay away from synthetics until the 1200 oil change, as with synthetics you run the risk of not having the rings get hot enough to seal properly
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