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Post by Dandy Dan on Aug 18, 2005 19:05:41 GMT -5
You might wanna wait a bit longer before going to synthetic. Perhaps buy a 1 litre of regular oil and then go to synthetic around 500 miles. Given your hot weather 10w30 will be fine but it might be a bit thin. I'd say Ideally you might want 10w40 or 20w40. Remember this is a high revving engine so give it good oil and thick oil so runs for a long time.
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Post by scooterbill on Mar 29, 2009 9:06:41 GMT -5
I say to change the oil at 100 miles, then 300 miles, then 600 miles and after that every 600 miles with regular oil. I would use regular oil until the scooter stops getting any faster (when break in is done) then I would switch to synthetic. It will help it from waring more and getting slower. Seems logical to me.
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Post by chanito on Mar 29, 2009 10:42:19 GMT -5
 I still do not see the need for synthetic oil Everyone swear by it, but there is not any advantage if it will get replaced at 600 miles
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linner
Junior Ruckster
Posts: 78
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Post by linner on Apr 1, 2009 11:00:24 GMT -5
question for chanito...then if synthetic oil causes the rings to run cooler.....after the break in period with standard oil, you see no advantage for the cooler temps? Thanks honey.
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Post by scooterbill on Apr 1, 2009 13:07:13 GMT -5
For Chanito.
I will continue to use the regular oil. I think the synthetic is not much better than the regular oil if it is changed every 600 miles.
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Post by mafiamind on Apr 15, 2009 12:30:57 GMT -5
i just changed mine with 10-w40 syn mobil 1.. but i dont think its for 4 stroke engines, does this matter???
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Post by Kami no Chiizu on Apr 15, 2009 23:43:46 GMT -5
i just changed mine with 10-w40 syn mobil 1.. but i dont think its for 4 stroke engines, does this matter??? Is it for cars, because they're all 4-strokes, too... Well, there are exceptions, like certain Mazdas... |
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Post by mafiamind on Apr 16, 2009 12:55:24 GMT -5
yeah high milage cars, i should know this stuff, but i was not sure.
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Post by chanito on Apr 16, 2009 20:05:18 GMT -5
question for chanito...then if synthetic oil causes the rings to run cooler.....after the break in period with standard oil, you see no advantage for the cooler temps? Thanks honey. Why would the rings run cooler? I guess some explanation is in order, synthetics and regular oils are similar (but not the same). The main difference is how they are made, most synthetics start from a refine base and using various chemical processes finish with a pure hydrocarbon chain without any waxes or paraffins (or any other contaminants), this is a expensive process and produces little oil at a time, making it very expensive, regular oil in the other hand is refining crude oil until you get the oil base (which is the starting point for most synthetics) then is just a matter of adding additives to get the weight and qualities of the oil you want. the kick is that now modern processes make the base oil very good, so good in fact some companies even call their bases synthetics And here cames the fun part  waxes and paraffins are not bad, actually they are good, when you machine a new motor (or a used one for rebuilt) you left a bunch of scratches called valleys that are a necessity as oil will get there and stay put providing lubrication; and also peaks that if left there will accelerate wear, breaking in a motor is just letting the rings wear down and smooth the peaks leaving the valleys alone, regular oil will fill the valleys with wax and paraffin leaving the peaks expose to the wear by themselves, so this break in occurs nicely. But synthetics lacking wax or paraffins will allow the peaks to roll into the valleys, making a surface without valleys therefore not able to hold oil in it surface, becoming glazed and allowing blow by and consume oil, that is why is a bad idea to use synthetic oil in a new engine or one that has not being broken in. But (always a but) waxes and paraffins when expose to heat and pressure will morph into gooey substance called sludge that can clog those oil passages creating a luck of lubrication on the engine, and that can lead to catastrophic failure, synthetics lacking those, can stay working way longer and are less affected by heat, so yes they have an advantage if they are going to stay in the engine long, if you care for your scooter you will change your oil sooner than the 2500 miles service interval the factory recommends, making the longevity of synthetics a non factor Ester base oil on the other hand are a plastic kind of oil non related to either one of them, with an incredible resistance to heat and pressure, and with a viscosity that stay close to the same cold or hot, making it a multi-grade without the need for additives, alas it does not mix with the other oils and is ridiculously expensive, in my opinion overkill for our scooters  Sorry, i did not mean for this to turn into a class |
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Post by mafiamind on Apr 16, 2009 21:02:25 GMT -5
hey, thanks for the info, i learned something new
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Post by moparman64 on May 9, 2009 20:53:21 GMT -5
I used to use Mobil 1 in my car (ford crown vic) but it would always get dirty at 2000 miles. When I switched back to Castrol GTX the oil didn't get dirty until 3000? I thought the mobil 1 stayed cleaner...
Also the manual and the honda dealer say every 2500 after break in
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Post by scooterbill on May 10, 2009 2:05:49 GMT -5
Moparman64. Most everyone changes their oil every 600 miles even though the owner's manual says every 2500 miles. I would change it every 600 miles if I did a lot of trips of less than 10 miles. For longer trips I would do it every 800 to 1000 miles. There is no oil filter on the ruck so that is the reason people change it sooner. If it is a "05" and earlier I would change the oil every 600 miles.
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Post by moparman64 on May 10, 2009 7:49:24 GMT -5
Ah, that makes sense. What is the oil strainer thing the owners manual speaks of? Also, what about where it says you cannot use oil labeled as "energy conserving" on the back? I thought mobil 1 had that on it....
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Post by scooterbill on May 10, 2009 19:31:49 GMT -5
The oil strainer is a metal screen, it is supposed to screen the oil. The oil strainer is in the bottom of the engine near where the exhaust pipe comes off the engine. Most people clean it every other oil change. The ruckus has no oil filter, so it uses that oil screen. Just change the oil every 600 miles after break-in and you should not have any problems for a long time.
The owner's manual has a couple things that are not right or most people do sooner. The oil change at 600 miles after break-in is one and the other has to do with the "energy conserving" oils.
The owner's manual tells you not to use the energy conserving oil, but it is actually better to use. The reason we can use energy conserving oil is because the ruckus does not have a wet clutch, it is more like a engine in your car. A wet clutch is used in most motorcycles. A wet clutch has the transmission and the clutch in the same compartment which also is used to hold the engine oil. The additives in the oil can mess up the clutch so it will slip, that is why you should not use regular engine oil in a motorcycle. Sorry if I did not explain it very well. Most all the questions you will have, will have already been discussed on here. It would be a real good idea to read this whole forum.
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