wcr
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 9
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Post by wcr on May 14, 2006 18:39:04 GMT -5
what jets should I run on '06 with pod filter kit? I'm in Hawaii (sea level}
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Post by Dandy Dan on May 15, 2006 8:30:53 GMT -5
You'll want to switch the slow jet from a 35 to either a 38 or 40..and then set your main jet somewhere in the 72,75,78,80 range. I'd guess you'd be close with a combo like 38/80 or 40/78. I've got an 06 with the pod filter. I'm at a bit higher elevation but also in a colder climate so our needs should be similar except I also have the cam so maybe my main jet is up one or 2 on you. Perhaps you'd only need a 38/75 or so.
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wcr
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 9
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Post by wcr on May 15, 2006 15:36:58 GMT -5
Thanks for the help ,I will try
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Post by Dandy Dan on May 15, 2006 16:05:10 GMT -5
When deciding between a 38 and 40 slow jet just base it on your acceleration from 0-10mph...above that it's pretty much all the main jet. Both the 38 and 40 should work fine and without a computer to give you actual acceleration figures you probably won't notice a difference but still give both a shot.
You will need to toss in a bigger main though or else even with the larger slow jets you'll still be lean off the line. The order I'd suggest is:
- Swap main jet to a 78 - Try a 38 slow - Try a 40 slow - Stick with the best one - Swap your 78 main jet for a 72 and evaluate your top speed/hill climbing abiilities - Swap that 72 for a 75..... - Swap that 75 for a 78 - Swap that 78 for an 80 - Swap that 80 for an 82 (unless the 80 was clearly worse than the 78)
This method is a bit time consuming but it will ensure you get both the slow jet and main jet dialed in. Make sure you go for a long enough test with each jet to get a fair evaluation of how good it works because if your scooter is cold (first 10min of a ride) it's gonna run kinda mediocre regardless of how dialed your jet is. What I like to do is keep the floorboard off so I change the jets easily but only do 1 swap per day (unless it's clearly terrible) so you get a bit of riding time on each jet so you can feel it as you're gettiing closer to the right mix etc.
If you want to do it the lazy way then put a 38/78 setup in and ride for a day and then pull your plug. If it's black go with a 75 and if it's white/light grey go with an 80.
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wcr
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 9
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Post by wcr on May 18, 2006 13:44:35 GMT -5
Dandy Dan thanks for all the help, I will let you know when I get my order
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Post by Dandy Dan on May 18, 2006 14:30:04 GMT -5
Sounds good. I'd just like to reinterate the importance of giving each jetting combo a fair shot. If you spend 20min changing the jet it'd be a shame to skimp on the test ride and only go out for 5min. What I usually notice is that in the first 5 min any jetting setup performs pretty much the same (unless you're way lean/rich) but after 5-10min if your setup is right it'll just get faster and faster until you're climbing small hills and hitting the redline on the way up. I usually just do 1 swap per day so I get to ride 20 mile each way to university and back on each set up to really feel it out.
Also, make sure you're doing all the tests in similar conditions. You might miss the sweet setup if you try it out on a windy day cuz that can really kill your top speed.
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wcr
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 9
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Post by wcr on Jun 19, 2006 14:55:36 GMT -5
I running 78/38 it's a little slow 0-10mph.I think I will try a few more jets. Does any one have pics of the hose set up for pod filters? I want to make sure I,m running filters on the correct hoses.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 19, 2006 15:17:38 GMT -5
I meant to take a picture of my setup this weekend because I finally got it setup perfectly and looking great but I ran out of time so I'll try and discribe it too you.
I cut down the hose going to the funky PCV module and the breather hose going to the side of the carb ran them both to the small pink filter using the supplied 'T' connecter. I located the small filter on the left side of the bike by running it through a bracket on the inside of the main frame tube.
Then I ran the PAIR hose (goes to bottom of the head) under the carb and just let it suck unfiltered air because this is just going into the exhaust tract. Lastly, I used an extra T connector from the hoses that you scrap that were laying alongside the gas tank and used that to plug the PCV outlet (from the top of the head) to the main fitler. I used the plug from those extra hoses along with 1" of hose to plug off the extra nipple on the T connector. I'll post a pic next weekend.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 19, 2006 15:21:21 GMT -5
I running 78/38 it's a little slow 0-10mph.I think I will try a few more jets. My climate is a bit colder than yours (Ontario, Canada) and I'm at 1000 ft elevation which I don't know what that means but I'm very happy with my 38/85 setup. You shoud try to figure out whether you are rich or lean 0-10mph by comparing runs during the hot day vs. cool night time runs. When the the air is colder is contracts so it's more dense so you get more so if you have too much gas right now the extra air at night time will make it better, whereas if you have not enough gas right now then it'll run even worse at night. You might just need to dial in the idle mix too if it's just bogs a little when you pounce on the throttle.
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Post by timberwolfmadcat on Jun 19, 2006 21:34:53 GMT -5
I running 78/38 it's a little slow 0-10mph.I think I will try a few more jets. Does any one have pics of the hose set up for pod filters? I want to make sure I,m running filters on the correct hoses. Go for top end performance first, dial in the low end afterwards, im running a 40-82 Setup b/c it rules 60-71 km/h, mine laggs, bogs,cuts out if i whip the throttle right off the bat up to about 30 km/h (20 MPH)
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 21, 2006 9:26:30 GMT -5
Yeah dial in the top first. I take a rough guess with the slow jet (38 or 40) and then dial in the top and once you got that dial in the slow jet and the idle mix. It's good to take a rough guess with the slow jet before you dial in the main jet so you top end doesn't get way out of wack since slow jets affect the top end a little too.
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wcr
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 9
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Post by wcr on Jun 22, 2006 3:00:11 GMT -5
I switched to a 80 main and 38 slow .I lost some top speed about 3-4mph
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jun 22, 2006 8:38:27 GMT -5
You lost 3-4mph on the top end when you went from a 38/78 to a 38/80? If that's correct and if you did the tests in similar conditions (ie. not windy, too cold, too hot etc) and let the engine fully warm up then it seems like you must be too rich. Pull your spark plug and have a look. If it's black go back to the 78 or maybe all the way down to a 75.
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dano1
Junior Ruckster
My "other" Weekend Honda
Posts: 54
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Post by dano1 on Jul 25, 2006 11:13:18 GMT -5
Are the stock sizes of the slow and main jets the same for the 2005 and 2006 versions? I think I've read that the 2006 needle is different to account for the added RPM of the 2006, so I might try it now that I've installed the Hybrid CDI.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jul 25, 2006 12:14:55 GMT -5
Yes, every year of Ruckus has had a 35 slow jet and 75 main jet. The carb needle works by plugging the main jet at idle and then it slowly pulls out as you accelerate to give you more and more gas. Think of it like plugging a garden hose with your finger. I believe the new needle works better because it's a more gradual taper so the gas flow doesn't change as irradically so there are no lag spots. It doesn't sound right to me that the needle is for the higher redline because once you've been at full throttle for a couple seconds the needle is completely out of the main jet so the shape of the needle shouldn't be affecting anything. I think the new needle will give you somewhat smoother acceleration and more importantly, quicker throttle response when you are coasting along at say 20mph at 1/4 throttle and suddenly twist the throttle to max. Before, it would get too much gas too quick and it would slightly bog for a second but now that the taper is smoother the flow change should be more gradual so it should run better. According to Honda one of the improvements for 2006 is 'improved acceleration and throttle response' which I believe is the result of this new needle. honda.ca/MotorcycleEng/CurrentModels/Scooter/NPS506.htm?year=2006&page=productfeatures
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Post by Blackruk on Oct 7, 2006 11:40:51 GMT -5
I have a 2006 needle and have been rejetting with the pod filter.
I was running a 40/85 setup. It was too lean on the low end and too rich at the top. I dropped to an 82 and rather than increasing the slow jet, I took Chanito's recommendation and (instead of shimming the needle) cut the 2006 needle down to the same length as the stock pre-2006 needle. That solved the low-end leaness and I think I have the (near) perfect jet setup.
Anyone running the 06 needle in the pre-06 should consider cutting theirs down.
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Post by Jasper on Oct 7, 2006 12:32:48 GMT -5
you got a picture of the cut needle? Timber suggested going up on the main jet to accomodate with the extra lenght as another solution
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Post by Blackruk on Oct 7, 2006 16:21:42 GMT -5
Dang! I already put it back in. I'm still tweeking my top end so I'll take a snapshot next jet swap.
Basically, I cut it to the stock length and then carefully filed down it down to a point.
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Post by chanito on Oct 8, 2006 12:33:51 GMT -5
;D That is the way to do it, the perfect way should be to put the needle in a holder and cut it and shape it on a lathe, which is not that easy to do unless you are on good terms with a jewelry maker
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Post by Blackruk on Oct 16, 2006 16:59:29 GMT -5
I went back to the 85 main. The 82 made the plug pretty white. Warm idle is a little rough (I still need to adjust the idle mixture). I think I my need to check the valve shims as it accellerates a little jerky over 25 mph.
I'm maxed out at about 38-39 mph with my '03 (in a tuck). Before the pod filter, I was hitting the bar at 40+ mph (w/CDI & BSS variator). I figured I might lose a little top end if I went to the pod.
Question - do you think this is about the best speed I can expect out of my old '03?
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