How to install the Kitaco CDI

The plug and play unit isn't really plug and play. I'm not sure what the differences are between the Japan and North American versions but the version you could should be easier but not a cakewalk.

There are 3 things you need to connect your CDI too:

1) The ignition coil. This is right on top of the engine and you'll see two wires plugged in here that are green and yellow. You'll have a yellow/black wire from your CDI that plugs onto this coil instead of the yellow one that's on there now. Just unplug the stock yellow wire and slide the one from the CDI on. Then take the stock yellow wire and connect it to the other yellow wire from the CDI head that has the 'male' end. This might be confusing but once you see the ends it pretty straightforward.

2) Next you need to connect it to the tach signal. To do this just plug the blue/yellow (?) wire into the empty socket under the battery box cover. It'll just be hanging there.

3) The last part is the hard part. What you need to do now is somehow get power to your CDI. You could just take the last 2 wires (green? green/black? red?) and connect them to your battery terminals except then your CDI would always be on so it would drain the battery. Instead you need to connect them to the correct wires near the battery. Check out the Battlescooter install page for pics on which wires to connect these too. The Japan CDI had fancy ends on these power wires and according the battlescooter install instructs you to cut them off so you can just solder the wires but your North America CDI might have different ends but regardless, connect it to the same wires.

From what I have read recently from DD and others most do not like the idea of the cdi anyhow and recomend metro top gear to add top spead to the rucki.

I may look into a tach, so I dont rev into the 10k damage range, any recos?

The crankshaft bearings are going even on stock Ruckus's after 10,000 miles so a CDI is just gonna make the situation worse if you regularly run it past the redline.

However, it's not likely the CDI is actually gonna make much of a difference for you because unless you currently have the power to hit the redline (which you can probably only do down hills) then you're not gonna notice any difference.

Another thing to consider is that the Ruckus makes it peak hp at 8000rpm so if you're revving up at 10,000rpm you're way past the peak and you'd probably be going faster if you were geared taller instead so you were at 8000rpm.

The first mod anyone should do is a variator like the Polini. This gives you better acceleration and it gears you taller on the top end so it's unlikely you'll ever hit the redline except down steep hills unless your Ruckus is heavily mod'd ie. the big bore piston.

If you already have the variator and you've tuned your Ruckus to make enough power that you can still regularly get to the redline (which is 46mph on my 2006 but it would be more like 42mph on a pre-06 because they redline at 8000rpm instead of 8850rpm) then it's time to either ditch the redline via a CDI or go with metro gearing.

Both end up being about the same price. The disadvantage of the Metro gearing is that it gears you taller across the board so you'll need to go with lighter rollers to get most of your acceleration back but you'll still stumble a little more off the line. The advantage is that your Ruckus is gonna last longer and you'l probably go faster since you'll be closer to the peak hp. The CDI will allow your Ruckus to perform identical to before up til the point at which you'd hit the redline and then it'll allow your revs to scream even higher and thus you can go faster. If you have a pre-06 Ruckus then this isn't so bad because it is safe to go up to about 9000rpm since the 06's rev this high anyways but don't go screaming down hills at 60mph.

One important thing to remember is that CDI's DO NOT WORK with a 2006 Ruckus which is fine because the 06's have a higher redline anyways.

Anyways, sorry for the doomsday rant...your CDI will be fine as long as you have the power to use it and the self control to not blast down hills at crazy speeds. Keep your revs under 9000 rpm and you'll be okay.

Just wondering what leads you to this conclusion? I know your's failed,(suprised they lasted that long,rule of thumb is the more you mess with it the more problems you encounter ) but what kind of #s are we talking? How many Rucs have over 10K and where do you find this kind of information?

Read more than 1 line? I know Dandy past 10kmi . He was also in and out of his motor many times,rode off road, two up,and basicly tortured his ruck. The point of the question is how many Rucs,stock or otherwise have or will go 10kmi and how does he justify his comment that "bearings are going ". His, and who elses?

That's one pro. lookin how too. Makes the boys @ BS look kinna sad.

That's a nice looking set of directions.

great how to pics, amishland. It will be helpful when my cdi arrives this week. I like Japanese Scooter Technicians...

I installed my new Kitaco CDI and it was a breeze. Studying the Pictures from above images was a DIY's dream. thanks for the post.

Holy Moly, what a huge improvement with the thing in my 2005 Ruck. I can't believe the power delivery at every speed. Off the line is amazing for the mighty little bike. I'm beyond satisfied.