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Ruckster
'05 Ruckus, '97 Polaris 400L 4X4
Posts: 251
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Post by ZoomZoom on Dec 31, 2005 1:47:24 GMT -5
I'm keeping my eyes open in Ebay for one.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Dec 31, 2005 12:53:23 GMT -5
8-)What you need is something that comes in tubes, like toothpaste use to came in, the one we use is the silicone sealer from Nissan, but permatex makes a great one called ultra grey (or something similar), if i remember right is 599, but regarless, use a silicone sealer from an autopart, there is a lot of them but stick to a known brand ;D The stuff I've got did come in a toothpaste tube like that and it's made by Permatex. It's called 'Form-a-Gasket' sealant. Below that it says No 1AR, UPC 81347 and 4DK1529A. It doesn't say anything about silicone though. Should I use it or buy better stuff?
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Post by chanito on Dec 31, 2005 13:53:25 GMT -5
I will go later to an autoparts store and look at what you got and then i will let you know ;D
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Post by Dandy Dan on Dec 31, 2005 18:26:24 GMT -5
Thanks! I didn't work on it too hard today. So far I have the exhaust, rear wheel, floorboard and drive unit detached from the engine and the engine pretty much out of the scoot. With another 30min work I'll be ready to split the case. I'll likely work on that on Monday though cuz I'm kinda busy tomorrow. I also tried out my lowered kickstand it really does rock. I'd give it a 10 for design cuz it bolts on perfectly, a 10 for function cuz it's very stable and looks awesome, an 8 for craftsmanship cuz the welds are fine but mediocre and a 7 for painting cuz it wasn't primed that great so there's some misses in the welds etc. It's not noticable but when you look closely you can see it's so-so.
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Post by chanito on Jan 8, 2006 19:13:16 GMT -5
What should i use as a sealer when i work on my engine? 8-)First you need an RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing)sealer, so you can just put your parts together and the sealer will work its magic without having to worry about activators or heating or some extra procedure, second, most of the sealing will be between two metal surfaces, silicone will remain elastic enough so when the metals expand and contract at diferent rates it will still seal, so get one with it in it, also some come in grey or orange, i prefer using one of them so i can easily see that i cover all the area i need to cover, my favorite is the orange stuff you can get from a Nissan dealership, but you can get a good silicone RTV sealer from an autopart store ;D
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jan 9, 2006 18:55:10 GMT -5
The Permatex stuff I got is silcone based. It's grey and it has harden very much like the original stuff. It looks like it's going to work great.
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Post by sstavis on Feb 4, 2006 14:45:39 GMT -5
chanito, how does the transmission in the ruckus work? is it a CVT with an infinite number of gear ratios or is there just one gear ratio?
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Post by Dandy Dan on Feb 4, 2006 15:06:48 GMT -5
It's a CVT with infinate ratios. There are plates that squish together on the front to force the belt to ride higher and in the back the plates start off squished together and as it speeds up it rides lower...like it's getting a wedgie.
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Post by chanito on Feb 4, 2006 19:22:48 GMT -5
I think i answer this question before, but anyway our transmition is a constantly variable transmition, that means that is just changing the ratios of the front pulley to the rear pulley. The variator is a set of pulleys that either narrows or widens making the belt ride closer to the center (wide) or all the way out (narrow) a set of weight in the front pulley use centrifugal force to send the weight out and therefore narrowing the front pulley sending the belt outward, since the belt does not grow, it will start pulling the rear pulley apart widening it, making the belt ride closer to the center, something similar to changing gears in a multispeed bycicle, so at rest the front pulley will be small and the rear big giving you more torque but slower speed, at full speed the front will be big and the rear small giving you the fastest speed
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Post by puttingalong2 on Feb 5, 2006 15:07:11 GMT -5
Chanito/others....... Anyone know the start/finish ratio of the stock variator system?
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Post by Dandy Dan on Feb 6, 2006 12:46:15 GMT -5
I talked to the guys at Veypor.com because I'm getting one of their motorcycle computers and told them about this last week. They said they would try to add a feature that not only displays your gear but also the gear ratio which is benefical for scooterists. They should have that feature going in a month or so but I won't have mine for about 2 mths so if you check back then I should be able to help you out.
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Post by puttingalong2 on Feb 6, 2006 23:40:54 GMT -5
Thanks Dan! That would be a cool feature since you could monitor your ratio, and know whether your ratios are changing due to dirt in the systen, or a worn belt. I asked the ratio ? because I have been to lazy to open up the CVT cover, and measure the two drive faces to calculate the two ratios. I should have time to do this in the next few days, and if anyone is interested, I will post the dia's, and ratios.
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Post by chanito on Feb 7, 2006 0:05:09 GMT -5
Acording to the manual the begining is 1:3.5 with a final of 1:3.461, but i am not sure how accurate that is
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Post by Dandy Dan on Feb 7, 2006 0:31:27 GMT -5
That gear ratio range doesn't sound very wide. It sounds more like the margin of error in the final gear ratio rather than the total gear spread. What page did you find that on Chanito?
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Post by puttingalong2 on Feb 7, 2006 3:30:53 GMT -5
At first I thought the numbers were just transposed on the beggining ratio, and it should be 3.5:1 with a final of 1:3.461. 3.5 motor revs in begging = 1 rev at the gearbox, and 1 motor rev in the final =3.461 revs at the gearbox? These numbers sounded reasonable since starting, the front pulley is at about 1/3 of the diameter of the second pulley, and as it shifted out, the rear pulley was at about 1/3 of the front. But.... if the motor is spinning at 8,000 rpm that would put the rear pulley at 27,688 rpms (8,000 * 3.461) Obviously this is wrong because that would make the wheels rpm 2,018... Which at a rough 5' circumfrence of the tire would mean we could go 114 mph. I am sure those numbers are acurate for something, but I can not make sense of them. Anyhow, the reason for this question is because I am very seriously considering adding an electric hybrid system to the ruckus, and I am trying to decide where I want to drive the system with the electric motor. Just for some rough #'s so everyone does not think I am completely nuts...... This motor can at peak output add 4.5 hp, and over nine foot / pounds of torque. Peak can only be maintained for 30 seconds before you run the risk of melting the electrical bits, but would give on heck of a boost to the starting power for acceleration. At the most efficient output it will add 1.3 hp, and 1.6 foot / pounds of torque for cruising, and at the max efficient amperage the batteries will last for a little over an hour. The ratios will allow me to determine the torque at the wheel, and from there I can determine if I want to run the motor through the CVT, or connect it to the centrifugal clutch on the driven pulley. My optomistic goal was that the electric motor would add enough torque to the system that I could eliminate the CVT with a cogged belt system geared for about 52 mph at 8,000 gas motor rpms to have the gearing to go faster than my motor, or metro gears will alow with the extra power. Also the cogged/ timing style belt will have a lesser parasitic loss than the CVT. I could go on, but I think you can get the jist of it from there. I hope I am not hijacking the post, but in away... I am looking for some point of views, so I guess it is not a total hijacking. If anyone can make sense of the CVT ratios I am all ears, but like I mentioned before... I think I just need to crack it open, and take some measurements. Thanks guys... I apreciate it!
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Post by puttingalong2 on Feb 7, 2006 3:56:35 GMT -5
Ok.... Forgive me if this is boring anyone, but what do you guys think of this..... For the starting ratio... I am guessing the rpms of the motor is about 2,200 @ 5 mph. After all the math, which I will spare you unless anyone wants to know how I got there.... I calculated the beggining ratio to be 1.83:1. Then assuming 8,000 rpms @ 40 mph would give a .83:1 final ratio. Total ratio differential of 2.66. My biggest guess out of the whole thing was 2,200 rpms at 5 mph, and maybe someone can verify this with a tach since I do not have one on at the moment. Anyhow... I guess I am asking if this sounds reasonable?
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Post by chanito on Feb 7, 2006 7:19:51 GMT -5
Nice idea putting along, but you are forgetting there is a set of gears called final reduction, between the clutch and the rear axle, anyway that ratio is 2.80-0.86, hope this helps, keep us posted on your hybrid ;D
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Post by puttingalong2 on Feb 7, 2006 12:40:11 GMT -5
Chanito.... Thanks for the info! I was close on the final, but as I expected... my guesses where off on the starting ratio. Also... The final gear ratio is 13.72:1roughly, and I did use it to calculate those numbers. For example on the final ratio @ .86:1 breaks down like this. 1/.86*8,000= 9,302, where 1/.86 is the final cvt ratio, 8,000 is the max motor rpm, and 9,302 is the rpm of the final pulley.
9,302/13.72=678, where 13.72 is the final reduction ratio, and 678 is the rpm of the rear tire
678*5.02'=3,430, where 5.02 is the circumfrence of the tire, and 3,430 is the feet per minute traveled
3,430'*60min=204,213, where 204,231 is the feet per hour traveled
204,213'/5,280'=38.76mph, where 5,280 is the number of feet in a mile, and 38.76mph at 8,000 rpms is the theoretical top speed.
I am sure I have some very minor goofs in here, but I think I am about 99.8% on with my math.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Feb 7, 2006 14:29:01 GMT -5
That's pretty confusing stuff but I hope it works out for ya ;D Keep us posted
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Post by chanito on Feb 7, 2006 21:18:40 GMT -5
;D The number match, but i did a mistake the final ratio in the variator for the ruckus is 3.916, i stated the values for the metro (the manuals look close enough that i comfuse them ), your math is solid, now there is some physics to take care of, like rpm synchonization between the engine and the elec motor, a one way roller clutch would allow you to over rev one of them, and i agree with you adapting the electric motor to input at the clutch is a good idea, the toothed belt is not a good idea as it will need a perfectly synch system, a poly rib belt will be more forgiving and require less tension (less friction loss), cooling the dc motor will require some clever engineering, but i guess you thought of all of that already, please post some pics or drawings to make your ideas easier to understand, but so far it looks like a complicated project with a bunch of litle problems to solve, but those are the most rewarding projects ;D ;D
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