Baizys pod filter tuning adventure

[Baizy]

Hi all, I realised that I should move my tuning story from the "Aftermarket Parts" section to the "Tuning" section, so were we all. All the previous posts from my "DIY POD FILTER INTAKE" post are hear to read so that the story will be a linear one. A bit of a foreward for my scoot in particular is that she is not stock in the engine areas. Running a huge Leo Vince Pipe, a large K&N pod filter tucked up under the seat, a Chanito 58cc Big bore kit and a Posh Racing CDI.


Update #1
I slapped it all together with my stock carb jetted 38/75 and she still ran pig rich. Indicated above 12:1 afr Which is pretty lame. So I slapped my 20mm cvk in jetted at /80 and HECK, throttled in rich at 12.2:1 afr, but ended up lean at 15.5:1 afr. I am thrilled to get reasonable readings and will be jetting up in the foreseeable future. Then I'll invest in some slow jets and get it to idle right when it's cold XD

Update #2
Sunday Ride update. I rejetted to idkS/82M and rode for a solid hour changing needle clip position twice. Ripping around I got some good results for a windy day with a smooth acceleration curve and nice top end pull. She wants to pull past 8800rpm now and gets into the 9xxx range. Bit more tuning next week and I can think about the gearing. Tunings a slow process for me but it will yield a superior result with patience!


Update #3
Still terrible to start when cold but that's because I'm too cheap to buy slow jets right now. The big news is that with the xx/82 setup it leans out at full throttle in the morning when the air is cold. So I guess I have to go up a couple more jet sizes for the main. More updates to come in the future. Happy Scooting!


Update #4
I jetted up to a 86 main and dropped my needle a slot. After a long ride I still had some issues with O2 readings being rather high at 9000RPM the sensor was indicating 16-16.5 as I creeped towards 9500 on a slow decline. Cruising readings were still rather rich at 12-12.5 depending on the speed. I am hopeful that an increase to a 90 main with another drop in the needle (my leanest setting) will bring full throttle AFR down to about 14 at most WOT speeds and the cruising readings up to 13. I think I may need a different needle in the future if I want my cruising AFR to be closer to stoich. Let the journey continue.

Update #5
Today's crazy development was my dedication to having spare parts for reckless modification.






The photo shows the stock 2006+ carb needle on the top and the 20mm CVK needle on the bottom. After a quick eyeball I deemed them to be the same size and tried to slap the stock needle in my bigger carb. It almost fit but the extra ridge prevents it from falling into place. So I did the only reasonable thing and spun it on a lathe to make it fit! So it fits now and after a few tips on the stand I think it's going to work really well and look forward to updating any readers on my results. I will bring glory to my old neglected Ruckus!

[Baizy]

Update #6
I caved and bought slow jets. Lucky for me I got a very wide kit and I got one small enough. My carb setup is currently a 35S/82M jet setup. It starts cold with absolutely no issues now and scoots around just fine. Most people would call it good here, but its not enough for me haha. I installed the modified stock needle with a 35S/86M setup and went for a big long ride and I was indicating in the 11's (well lower than 12) which is back to being too rich... THE NEEDLE WORKED! I went back to the shop after that run, swapped to the 35S/82M, and took it out again. I was getting indications in the low to mid 12's now, so I know what needs to happen. I have to cave again and buy a kit of smaller main jets. Argh! I'll have jets to tune an army of scoots after this! Until next time.

[Baizy]

Update #7 here we go.

I installed the #80 jet today and went on a good long ride and took notes. The ruck ran better than ever and was able to power past 9500rpm up to near 10000rpm. AFR at WOT was between 13(uphill) and 16(flat ground) as it varied with load (I don't really know why, if you know please tell me) but with the engine rpm being higher than its ever been within safe AFR's I am ready to start changing the gearing for peak speed. I will use a shaved down variator face and 0.016" washers to shim the variator out until it hits optimum drivability. Living in a hilly area flat stretches are usually in the 80/hr (50mph) and I'd really like to be able to do those speeds comfortably.

[ender2009]

Hey Baizy, thanks for this write up. Sorry to interrupt the flow. Just wondering how you are checking those air-fuel ratio settings?

[Baizy]

Jun 19, 2021 11:35:19 GMT -5 ender2009 said:

Hey Baizy, thanks for this write up. Sorry to interrupt the flow. Just wondering how you are checking those air-fuel ratio settings?

I'm checking by using a sweet bit of kit I have on my Ruck. I have a leo vince pipe see here: www.dynoscooter.com/products/leo-vince-honda-ruckus-exhaust?variant=29046053584 which has a bung for an O2 sensor in it.

I also have the Koso AFR Mini kit installed in said leo vince bung see here: www.scootertuning.ca/en/electronics-air-fuel-meters/21083-air-fuel-meter-koso-mini-lcd.html

With those 2 bits of kit I am able to monitor afr in real time when I'm ripping around in most conditions. I'll take some photos of it next time I'm near the Ruck.

[ender2009]

Real cool! Man, I wish they had a bung like that on the Yoshimura exhaust (which I'm not seeing in any pictures, at least). I want to go with an intake and exhaust, but I really don't like the idea of rejetting blind. I really don't trust doing it by feel, so to speak. I've got wind and hills and all sorts of things like that in my area, and so the rejetting process just seems like a nightmare unless I were to have some programmatic way of testing.

[ender2009]

Hey Baizy, question for you… Do you think it would be possible to by a mini AFR kit like yours, and just bring it to a local muffler shop and have them weld on the included bung to an exhaust? I’m thinking of doing this with a Yoshimura TRC exhaust. I’m sure it’s a pretty simple welding job, so it prob wouldn’t break the bank. Any problems you can foresee with this idea?

[Baizy]

I don't see any issue at all with doing that as I welded the bung onto a chopped factory pipe myself first time around. Would cost all of 20 bucks in my opinion if the muffler shop will do it. Ask for their best welder to do it, cause you have to treat the yoshi with respect.

[Baizy]

Update #8

I did swap some variator weights, but now I can't remember what I actually did. I did swap jets today though in order to increase reliability. For anyone still following at home I have a 58cc GET with a GY6 style 18-20mm CVK carb. (35/80) I had been experiencing poor starting performance and very poor cold drivability so I did an idle plug reading. Winding the mix screw out killed the engine rpm and darkened the plug, winding it in all the way left the plug looking almost ok. So I jetted down to my smallest slow jet, a 32, and repeated the process. The plug has a nice shade of brown now with the mixture screw turned out 3/4 of a turn from the seat. I could actually jet down to a 30 as the rpms were still climbing until I bottomed the screw however I don't have one. That greatly helped the starting idle situation but the cold rev performance was still lost so I jetted back up to an 82 and made progress in the right direction. I'm daily riding my Ruckus to work again so I will be more active with the updates once again. Maybe I'll even make myself that custom needle to really fine tune my AFR.

Side note: This would all be easier with a slide carb but I really like the concept of the CV carb and want to perfect it.

[Baizy]

Update #9

I remember now why I jetted down to an 80 Main in the first place as I bogged my way to work this morning. I'll be bogging into work for the rest of the week it seems, unless I can swap the jet at work one of these days.

I really need to mill myself that custom needle and install a cam too so that I can rejet all over again. Hahaha