TROUBLE STARTING

[memphismike]

I have a 2013 Ruckus. Totally stock still. 1200 Miles. 

Since I bought it, I've always had issues starting. I only use ethanol free, but the first and only previous owner to myself, on had 90 miles on it, let it sit around for about a year. I bought it a year old. She probably used ethanol fuel.

At first I went through typical battery issues, I replaced the battery and it lives on a Junior battery tender now. However, it gives me trouble starting. 

Sometimes the electric starter or relay whichever will do the infamous clicking, and will start > run for a few seconds and then die.  After like 20 times of that cycle,  it will stay on and run. Sometimes though, the electric start will crap out during that cycle and it will just give the dead sounding click.

When I ride, it doesn't die when stopped and generally after a ride will have no problem cranking back up. The kickstarter will also work but takes several times to get it going as well. 

So I am trying to clarify a few things:
 

• Could I have clogged fuel in the carburetor?
• How do I know when the starter is crapping out or has crapped out ( maybe the later is an obviously answer lol) ?
• What is causing this poor starting performance? 

Thank you!! 

[Baizy]

Hey Mike it sounds like you're going to have to pull the valve cover and check your valve shims. The poor performance could be from your exhaust shim being too small, making it an exceptionally high compression making it too hard for the starter to turn the engine over. When the engine heats up it expands the shims, drops the compression and things work as normal again. It's worth a look, and while you're in there just pull the carb body apart, clean it out and slap it all back together. Shouldn't take more than 2 hours. Have fun!

[memphismike]

Feb 6, 2021 16:33:36 GMT -5 Baizy said:

Hey Mike it sounds like you're going to have to pull the valve cover and check your valve shims. The poor performance could be from your exhaust shim being too small, making it an exceptionally high compression making it too hard for the starter to turn the engine over. When the engine heats up it expands the shims, drops the compression and things work as normal again. It's worth a look, and while you're in there just pull the carb body apart, clean it out and slap it all back together. Shouldn't take more than 2 hours. Have fun!

Thanks for the feedback. I think its worth noting - I have done zero mods or work to this bike, besides regular service.

You think this valve shim is still the issue? 

Also, what size jets have you used to replace the main and pilot? I know stock is 35 for pilot and 75 for main. Is there better sizes?

[Baizy]

I personally think valve shims should be more of a maintenance item than most people give them credit for as valve lash has a huge affect on small engines. I'm part of the crowd that doesn't have the plastic floorpan so it's a quick thing for me to check my valve shimming. A poorly shimmed bike will still run (I ran mine with no shims once... Oops) but you lose performance because of it. I would say keep the stock jets until you start mucking about with mods. I have tried MANY different mods and hack jobs and have made most things "work", but not all things are rideable outside of a parking lot. Hell I ran 100M38P jetting once just to see if it would work. Currently running 85M38P shimmed to the moon with a clipped spring and a handful of intake/exhaust mods, bigbore and what not. If you have any detailed questions you'd like to ask feel free to PM me and I'll gladly offer you advice and try to specifically answer your questions. Cheers Mike

[livingbyfaith]

I would definitely check valve clearances. I also think it might be highly important to check the, "Starting Enrichment Valve". It really sounds like yours may be faulty as the SE Valve basically works as a, "Choke or Enricher". What it really does is it allows fuel to pass by at a cold start and enrich the fuel system. As the motor heats up the needle gently seats and stops or cuts the fuel. Since the engine is warm there is no longer a need to enrich. This is why you have hard cold starts, have to kick the Ruckus so many times, and then seems to run fine once it is warm. If you would like to check the SE Valve this is the procedure according to the Honda Manual.
1. Disconnect the SE Valve 2P (2 prong) connector. It is located right on the carburetor. It will look like a white tube sticking out of the carburetor.
2. With the engine started at cold (Water is below 95 degrees Fahrenheit), measure the voltage between the Black (+) and Blue/Black (-) wire terminals to the SE Valve 2P connector. It is normal if there is no battery charge.
3. Connect the 2P connector and warm up the engine by keeping the engine speed approximately 6,000 rpm for 5-6 minutes. Manual suggest it be a normal temperature day such as 77 degrees.
4. Measure the voltage between the Black and Blue/Black wire terminals again with the engine running. It is normal if there is battery voltage. If input voltage is abnormal, check the open or short circuit of Black an Blue/Black wires and ECT sensors. If those are normal, do the following inspection.
5. Measure the resistance between the connector terminals. Standard: 2.8-5.2 Ohms (at 68 degrees Fahrenheit)
6. If the resistance is abnormal, replace the SE Valve.