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Post by brokejaw on May 13, 2020 10:57:00 GMT -5
I just bought a brand new stock ruckus and i'm not really into the GY6 mods i like it looking stock but would like to increase performance (top speed / acceleration). has anyone used this: EVI Plug & Play
I'm new here and will look into the stickies performance thread for the rest but I did a search and nothing really came up for this. I live in NYC so my tools and space are limited so with any modifications 'm doing i'm hoping to do simple swaps and upgrades that don't require extensive work. |
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Post by townie on May 13, 2020 16:33:09 GMT -5
No experience with the EVI, but it is interesting. Also, kind of expensive compared to others. Hopefully, someone has some experience with it and can comment.
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Post by LGonRC on Jul 6, 2020 17:33:55 GMT -5
Purchased my Ruckus in June and have been slowly tweaking it.
I just received and installed my EVI today.
Have also installed the Rolling Wrench variator and clutch kit ("CVT kit") a few weeks ago.
With CVT Kit, I was steadily averaging 44mph on flats. (I'm 5'7", 140lb) With the Plug and Play EVI, I've noticed a significant decrease in time it takes to get to 40mph, and about a slow rise to 50mph, I also live in a very mountainous area where hills are abundant and frequent. Getting up hills is less strenuous feeling!
Oh, when testing the CVT kit, I kept the cover off the CVT and lost the 17mm nut and lost all my 6gr aftermarket rollers. Had to swap back to original rollers. My tach states max RPM so far is 8600, so i know I have some more speed I can eek out. Plan on replacing them and rejetting soon.
TL;DR - Get CVT kit first. EVI acceleration is swifter, and I've seen a 6mph top speed increase.
Lastly, I just ordered some Michelin Bopper tires as my tires are the stock Kendas from January '17. I hear you get a 1-2mph bump from rolling resistance being decreased.
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Post by Mittenrucker on Apr 23, 2021 18:49:44 GMT -5
I installed my EVI on my 2019 ruck a few weeks back, ran well with throttle but died at idle. Rejetted the idle jet to a 38 and haven't had a problem since! I run 5.5 sliders with a polini variator and the highest rpm I get on a flat run is about 9900. I top out at about 45mph now!
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Post by rich1234 on Sept 12, 2021 0:04:48 GMT -5
I modded my 2017 ruckus this past May. I was adamant about not taking my ride's rev limiter away with a performance cdi. As a 25 year industrial maintenance mechanic I've seen what pushing machines beyond their limit can do. But....I got tired of that rev limiter after a couple months and decided to try one. I chose the rolling wrench EVI plug and play because it was plug and play. I live in a very hilly area. No flat ground in sight. So, I tuned to the powerband uphill...in other words my bike hovers around 8000 rpm going up most any hill. My set up is: 38 slow jet 82 main jet Yoshimura exhaust Polini variator with 5.25 rollers Daytona kevlar belt Stock clutch with NCY racing bell 45t final drive gear Before EVI CDI: 34-39 MPH uphill 44 MPH flat ground 45-46 at rev limiter downhill After EVI CDI: 34-39 MPH uphill 44 MPH flat ground 49 MPH at 9500 rpm downhill (Still not willing to push it too far...but 49mph on this little thing is plenty to me.) I do see a little bit faster acceleration. And having more momentum getting into hills cuts down my ride time. I didn't expect anything more than what I got. I think I'm getting the most I can out of my ruckus. I'm happy and IT'S happy We are close on mods I'll list the differences, 4.5 gram sliders, Poloni Belt, NCY Drive Face, stock final drive, 2020 Ruckus, 300 miles. I assume your running the Iridium plug. I am def glad I got the RW CDI, I need the lighter sliders for my size(6'5" 220lbs) and the hills here and I was bouncing off the rev limiter with the 4.5 gram sliders and topping out around 38. I think I am more like your top speed flat and downhill my gps hit 50. I think its running better with the CDI, it does idle higher at start, after the 5 minute warmup I crack the throttle and it settles in. I am curious what you are going to try next. I need to break it in to 600 miles. Then I am doing another oil change, changing the gear oil to royal purple or amzoil. I plan on pulling the clutch and sanding the glazing if any. Switch out the 4.5 grams for 5 gram sliders, I have the original 6 grams that came with the bike as well. I won a NCY Variator I will probably replace the Poloni I might look into aftermarket carbs, PC20? Maybe Matt from RW will get a Fuel Injection, I asked him about it last night. End of the road on the GET seems to be big bore kit, I'd like to be 5k miles or more before I think about that. |
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Post by rich1234 on Sept 12, 2021 22:42:50 GMT -5
Hey rich 1234. Bought a used 2015 ruckus Tuesday morning for a backup since my 2017 is at 18,000 miles. Going to keep it stock except for adding a polini variator to it and new kevlar belt around Christmas. I'm sure I could hit 50+ with my 2017 hotrod but, just not willing to push it past 9500 rpm. I run a tachometer on it full time since adding the cdi. Right now I've got my eyes on a used 2017 ruckus engine for 2 reasons... 1. I've got a feeling ill be replacing cylinder head and gasket soon. So, I'm going to take cylinder head off used engine and rebuild it so I'll have it ready to go. 2. I plan on sending the lower part of the engine off to have it rebuilt and...maybe...get it bored to the 58cc or 66cc. Don't want any gy6 crap. The engine I'm looking at is cheaper than a new cylinder head would be and supposedly only needs new piston rings. Either way...there's nothing I can't fix except stupid. Glad you're having fun being a ruckus owner. It's very addictive. I don't like or understand the high idle at start up with the evi rr cdi. Keeping my eyes on it. You might need to adjust down the idle, how high is it. Don't adjust it until its been running at least 5 minutes. Mine is actually Idling great, I turned it down and it idles below the recommended and never stalls it sound bad "edit profanity", at least according to the tach its around 1400-1500 rpm, it would never idle this low when the intake valve was tight. How many miles are on your 2015? I think my ruckus was setup pretty good when I bought it for Ohio flat roads and a lighter rider, it had 6 gram sliders. I might move up to 5 gram again, it wasn't running perfect last time I had the 5 gram, I think i might pick up alil more on the top end, its pulling the hills great for my 220lbs with the 4.5 sliders but I was hitting rev limiter quick and at under 40mph. The RW CDI uncapped that big time, I hit 52 mph downhill @ 10,400. I liked your big bore idea for sure, the gy6 has its charm but i'd like to fully explore what a GET can do. If Matt from RW got a fuel injection system for a bored GET that might be something. He has a video of a highly tuned GET beating a GY6 somewhere. Do me a favor and watch this video. This is not the first time I have heard keep the stock belt. www.youtube.com/watch?v=W66a5UahiNE |
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Post by brokejaw on Sept 13, 2021 9:33:10 GMT -5
Dude...I'm an industrial mechanic with decades of experience. Part of my job involves rebuilding tractor trailer engines and transmissions. A ruckus is like a Lego toy to me. I took the evil rolling wrench cdi off. High rpms at cold start will destroy your engine starting with the valvetrain. This morning my ride started up at 1900 rpms without the evil cdi. If your engine is starting at high rpms you'll be doing frequent valve adjustments until you get down to the 1.20 shim. Then you'll be needing a new cylinder head at minimum So you don't recommend it? |
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Post by rich1234 on Sept 13, 2021 10:36:53 GMT -5
Dude...I'm an industrial mechanic with decades of experience. Part of my job involves rebuilding tractor trailer engines and transmissions. A ruckus is like a Lego toy to me. I took the evil rolling wrench cdi off. High rpms at cold start will destroy your engine starting with the valvetrain. This morning my ride started up at 1900 rpms without the evil cdi. If your engine is starting at high rpms you'll be doing frequent valve adjustments until you get down to the 1.20 shim. Then you'll be needing a new cylinder head at minimum I'm not having your issue anymore, if you want to sell the CDI let me know, I would be interested. I adjusted the idle after I installed the RW CDI and its idling great, it was faster idling when I first put it on, adjusted the idle and its good, since you have wrenched for 20 years I would assume you have tried to adjust the idle. I worked on Jet Engines on the C-141B in the Air Force, did all the maint involved as on car/truck small engines for 35 years, but I do not assume anything when it comes to the Ruckus. |
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Post by Baizy on Sept 13, 2021 11:02:43 GMT -5
Not if your engine is going high rpm at start up. The hardest thing on valves is cold starting...which is basically everytime you crank it up, so you can't avoid that...but, if you crank it up and it's idling high it's extremely detrimental to the engine You're not wrong at all however due to the flywheel being such a beast the engine needs lots of oomph to get it going. The stock carb runs rich for the first minute before the idle enrichment needle valve seats and you end up resting at your standard 2000rpm. Also if you run your Ruckus very lean at idle the extra starting fuel really cranks up the rpms adding to the wear issue. If the RW EVI advances timing at idle it would spool up readily. On a side note the rucks also have forged pistons which you two maintenance engineers would know require a bit of warmup time before they reach optimal sealing potential in the cylinder bore. Please don't tear eachother to pieces over who's the better mechanic. 🙃 |
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Post by rich1234 on Sept 13, 2021 11:21:50 GMT -5
Not if your engine is going high rpm at start up. The hardest thing on valves is cold starting...which is basically everytime you crank it up, so you can't avoid that...but, if you crank it up and it's idling high it's extremely detrimental to the engine You're not wrong at all however due to the flywheel being such a beast the engine needs lots of oomph to get it going. The stock carb runs rich for the first minute before the idle enrichment needle valve seats and you end up resting at your standard 2000rpm. Also if you run your Ruckus very lean at idle the extra starting fuel really cranks up the rpms adding to the wear issue. If the RW EVI advances timing at idle it would spool up readily. On a side note the rucks also have forged pistons which you two maintenance engineers would know require a bit of warmup time before they reach optimal sealing potential in the cylinder bore. Please don't tear eachother to pieces over who's the better mechanic. 🙃 I'm here to learn, my prior experiences do not make me an expert at all on the GET. I def dialed in my idle on the RW CDI, it high idles like you say in the beginning, it did this before the RW CDI. I had to idle down the carb after the RW CDI and it idles great for me. Next is removing the Poloni Belt that was installed by previous owner and going back to OEM to see if that gives me alil more top speed. Thanks for explaining the startup on the Ruck. |
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