alzoe
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 8
|
Post by alzoe on Dec 13, 2010 13:51:10 GMT -5
hello everyone. 1st post. Bought my son an '09 ruck with 800 miles and excellent condition. All stock except po kid installed an HMF muffler but he did not re-jet. He also trimmed rear fender. I weigh 170lb and my son about 135 lbs. The ruck will not go faster than 32mph for either of us on flat road. Starts and idles beautifully, accelerates reasonably, and the HMF sounds great. Checked spark plug and it was gapped right on, a little wet but color is normal. Center electrode has a slight slope. Air filter is blue paper (Honda?) and clean. We changed oil with Mobile1 10W30 synthetic. Inflated tires to 25psi. All this improved the top - end speed up to 33mph. We also tried the B&S air filter with no difference. We live at sea level on a barrier island in South Carolina. Air temps around the mid 40sF Question: 1) Is re-jetting the only solution for the HMF muffler mod? 2) What other easy things should we try? 3) At what distance should we be at top -end at WOT on flat road?
Thanks a million in advance
|
|
|
Post by AweShucks on Dec 13, 2010 17:35:26 GMT -5
Aftermarket mufflers typically reduce performance. Re jetting will help regain some of that which was lost. An aftermarket variator will give you better top end try the polini with 6gram rollers it works well for riders your size. Do a search for Chanitos windshield on here. A good windshield will reduce drag and give you 1-3mph topend.
On a flat road you should reach topend within a 1/4 to1/2 mile given ideal conditions
|
|
alzoe
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 8
|
Post by alzoe on Dec 14, 2010 8:18:31 GMT -5
Thanks AweShucks. From what I've read here re- jetting is a trial and error ordeal. Are you suggesting to go for the variator before grappling with the carb?
I also read here that someone placed a small square of paper at the air filter screen to reduce flow and balance the mixture to his mod exhaust. He claimed a small amount of success. It's an interesting and easy test but I wouldn't want to make that a permanent fix. The ruck came with a blue air filter. If that is a honda filter then I understand it has less flow that the B&S that we tried. We found no difference either way. Is the blue filter a honda?
|
|
alzoe
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 8
|
Post by alzoe on Dec 14, 2010 13:17:02 GMT -5
My son just called and said he occluded about half of the intake at the air filter with a piece of paper. He was able to top out between 36 and 38 mph. Indication for bigger jet orifice? Anyone?
|
|
|
Post by BlueRidgeRuckRider on Dec 14, 2010 14:36:48 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by AweShucks on Dec 14, 2010 14:45:41 GMT -5
alzoe I would prioritize rejetting however the variator doesn't really relate to the issue so do that whenever you like. Before changing the jets try to adjust the mixture first, you may not have to rejet? In your case with the stock intake I would bet all you need is to adjust the mixture. Leaving this issue uncorrected will potentially damage your engine in the long run.
|
|
|
Post by chanito on Dec 14, 2010 19:00:25 GMT -5
;DI totally agree with AweShucks, I read all the 5 pages of the thread on TR and not even one mention of adjusting the idle mixture, adjusting the mixture is a must if you are doing any messing with the airflow, just hoping that luck will get the mixture right is a no no. Borrow, buy or rent a mixture adjusting tool and most of these problems will be solved, follow AS advice, he knows what he is talking about
|
|
alzoe
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 8
|
Post by alzoe on Dec 15, 2010 6:16:34 GMT -5
Thanks everybody. It makes sense to tweak the mix to satisfy the mod exhaust. Hopefully we won't have to re-jet. Yes chanito, Aweshucks does seem to speak with seasoned knowledge. I have been reading this forum for several weeks and you guys and DD and several others have been just awesomely enlightening. I'm sure I speak for many who lurk here when I say that your sharing of your experience is much appreciated. Thank again and Merry Christmas!
|
|
alzoe
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 8
|
Post by alzoe on Dec 16, 2010 8:53:41 GMT -5
The service manual does not mention "idle mixture" screw anywhere. However, it does address "pilot screw" adjustment. I believe this is the same as idle mixture screw. More importantly, what is the procedure to adjust mixture to match my only mod, the HMF muffler? I do not have a tachometer per se. I have an Actron multi-meter with dwell and rpm features. Regular probes with alligator attachment, not clamp on.The rpm scale does not go down to 1 cylinder.
|
|
|
Post by AweShucks on Dec 18, 2010 7:39:36 GMT -5
well barring the high tech tools and equipment. You can use the tune to performance and spark plug color to get yourself close or closer than you currently are. It;s not the most accurate method but it will get you in better running condition than you are now. I'd richen your mixture 1/4 turn at a time on a warm engine. Test run between adjustments and repeat until performance comes around. If you need to go beyond 1 full turn on the mixture it may require a larger jet? Then use a new spark plug to determine if you are in the acceptable range by color. White or Black bad, Tan is the color you want.
|
|
alzoe
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 8
|
Post by alzoe on Dec 18, 2010 8:53:54 GMT -5
Thanks AweShucks. We fashioned a tool but before we could get into tuning a NEW PROBLEM hit us: The rucker has become a bucker. Upon acceleration it misfires. At cruising speed and top end it runs well and at idle it purrs beautifully. Always starts easily. We put in a new plug (CR8EH-9), new gas, some SeaFoam and ran it then let sit overnight. No improvement.
Here's some details. Last Thursday night my son drove it up and down the street a few times, maybe a couple of miles total. Let rest about rest 10 minutes then he went off again. After leaving the driveway and then accelerating on the street it bogged down, bucking, misfiring and almost shutting off. the "low fuel" light came on so we thought it just needed gas. There was about 1inch of gas directly below the filler hole. We put in the new gas with seafaom and no help. We tweaked the idle mixture one way and then the other way a half turn each time for a total of 1 full turn cw and ccw. None of this seemed to make any difference except a weaker sounding idle when it was half turn ccw. Set the mixture back to original.
Friday I went to a scooter shop. One guy was sure it was water in the bowl. Another insisted that the pilot jet has debris from the low fuel tank. Also, all 3 dudes at the shop insisted that premium gas must be used. One guy even called a local Honda store and was told on the phone by the Honda people that 93 or better must be used on small high compresion engines. Back at home we drained the carburetter bowl. The gas looked pretty clean and no real convincing sign of water. We only saw a tiny bb sized blob of something that might have been water at the bottom of a plastic container used to catch the fuel. That might have been residual water from the container that I might have not dried out fully. Anyway, after that we put in 93 octaine gas (100% gas no ethanol). No help. Idles very well, cruises well enough but accelerates like a bucking bronco. We noticed a lot of fuel on the intake side of the carb. This is a Christmas present to my son and I'm very very disappointed. Thanks in advance to anyone that can point me in a reasonable direction. If I have to take apart the carb and clean the ports and jets I am prepared to do so. I am mechanically inclined having rebuilt boat motor carbs and several project cars('84 VW scirocco and '71 MGBGT). I don't want to go in there but I could if it comes to that.
----- One more thing: The spark plug was originally looking wettish and rather darkish but not extreme. After the misfiring began the plug looked dry but a nice tannish color. I haven't looked at the new plug yet.
|
|
2pid1
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 3
|
Post by 2pid1 on Dec 18, 2010 11:29:01 GMT -5
Make sure the air box is tight and has a good seal.
|
|
|
Post by AweShucks on Dec 18, 2010 13:34:43 GMT -5
Start out and work in. As 2pid1 mentions check the air box for both leaks and blockages. No changes were made just prior to this issue? Your son didn't tinker on it by himself? I know I would have when I was younger
|
|
alzoe
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 8
|
Post by alzoe on Dec 19, 2010 10:14:51 GMT -5
Airbox seal is solid. We've been in there a few times to modify the flow at the filter to better match the mod muffler. That action improve top end speed from 33mph to about 40 and even 41. Since the misfiring we have taken the occlusion off and back on from the filter. The misfiring didn't change. My son is 21 yo and the ruckus is to commute to college campus from his apartment. He's pretty sharp and very mechanically adept ( 3rd year civil engineering major with a 4.0. He's been building automatic transmissions out of Legos for many years. ). Thanks guys for your efforts. To recap: Ruck starts and idles perfectly. Runs at top end quite well. Bucks/misfires upon acceleration. New plug, fresh new gas(93oct, ethanol free since the misfiring started), good flow through the fuel filter and no water in the carb bowl. Carb intake is considerably wet with fuel.
|
|
|
Post by AweShucks on Dec 19, 2010 11:33:50 GMT -5
Well Alzoe not sure where to go from here other than a good carb cleaning. I'm almost tempted to suggest you trade the HMF pipe for a stock pipe and some cash unless your attached to the bling and sound? The stock pipe is really the best performing pipe out there.
Good Luck
|
|
alzoe
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 8
|
Post by alzoe on Dec 20, 2010 9:16:05 GMT -5
Thanks man. We are taking the ruck to the Honda shop today. I need to establish a solid baseline in the ruck by experts in their field before I go mucking around in the unknown realm of this complex apparatus. Sheeeesh......I'm plumb ruckered out !
Besides, we're also doing work on his '01 Audi alroad. Talk about high tech. The alroad is a complexity nightmare.........but.......ahhh...... so sweet when all is well...
I'll report the ruck results later.
|
|
|
Post by chanito on Dec 22, 2010 6:52:42 GMT -5
Sometimes the wisest thing to do is to give the experts a chance to fix it and then go modding ;D I earn my living working with engines and that sometimes involve, doing an autopsy on a dead engine which also includes checking the spark plug for sings of mixture problems, but i am not confident enough to set mixture on an engine with just a glance at the spark plug, and i am suppose to be very good at it, do the main jet tuning with an stopwatch and a handheld infrared thermometer, and ONLY AFTER SETTING THE IDLE MIXTURE and finding out you need to change the jet
|
|
|
Post by puffwar on Mar 15, 2015 16:12:02 GMT -5
the hmf website says to drill a hole in the airbox. Did your son do this?
|
|
|
Post by Emax999 on Mar 7, 2021 13:22:11 GMT -5
This thread like most threads never seems to find the solution when it comes to carb tuning. I picked up a two brothers cf black series exhaust. I am having 2nd thoughts on even installing it now. Tuning the carb seems like a nightmare. The information I’ve found for what size jets to use is very conflicting.
|
|
|
Post by Baizy on Mar 7, 2021 15:41:14 GMT -5
This thread like most threads never seems to find the solution when it comes to carb tuning. I picked up a two brothers cf black series exhaust. I am having 2nd thoughts on even installing it now. Tuning the carb seems like a nightmare. The information I’ve found for what size jets to use is very conflicting. The conflicting information is because no two rucks are the same! Elevation, engine series, ecu, and maintenance all play into how the scooter performs! The factory pipes are WAY SKINNIER than most aftermarket pipes because it helps the power down low where the aftermarket pipes are great for up top! Carb tuning is an art I will admit. I have swapped jets, shimmed the needle, clipped the spring, and pulled the plug near 100 times. Tuning by feel is hard and many people won't stick to it and 3 people tuning exactly the same ruck could end up with 3 different setups to be happy. It gets harder if your doing variator tuning at the same time because a bad variator setup could make the carb tune look bad! Almost any setup can be run on the stock carb with a 78/38 with a needle shim and a mildly clipped spring. Take the baseline numbers from the list of people who posted their tunes/elevations/mods and try a few out, get a feel for YOUR PARTICULAR RUCK and go from there! If you can, use your stock variator and weights because that's a common baseline known to work on literally 1000's of rucks. Get the engine to pull to redline with your new mods consistently, then change your variator/weights/gearing/belt to get the most out of it! I hope this gives you the confidence to slap your 2Bros pipe on and tune it up!
|
|