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Post by jimthejet on Jul 16, 2005 23:49:50 GMT -5
8-)Here is a low budget, tunable exhaust system utilizing the stock exhaust pipe so that the Honda Engineering in matching flow is not compromised. As many threads here have lamented, and many more IC engine enthusiasts (both car and motorcycle) have found out, most aftermarket "pipes" produce more noise and less power than stock systems. This system avoids that pitfall, and saves money as well. It is comprised of an old style steel dirt bike muffler (SuperTrapp brand) with the silencing core and Resonator (both SuperTrapp as well), and homemade mounting devices. The Resonator is not required, but helps cut the sound level. If you are not familiar with SuperTrapp, the basic design premise is tune-ability by adding or removing discs. More discs (giving more outflow area) provides more power and more noise. Fewer discs is the opposite.
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Post by chucktuna on Jul 17, 2005 0:02:53 GMT -5
Nice clean design. Thanks for the pic Chuck
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Post by chanito on Jul 17, 2005 5:43:50 GMT -5
;D Nice looking exhaust, hard to get those mufflers now Great job on the hangers ;D
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sfc
Junior Ruckster
Posts: 76
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Post by sfc on Jul 17, 2005 11:10:44 GMT -5
Jimmy,
Where did you get the supertrapp? Is there a certain model that I need to ask for?
Thanks
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Post by jimthejet on Jul 17, 2005 21:50:21 GMT -5
Jimmy, Where did you get the supertrapp? Is there a certain model that I need to ask for? Thanks 8-)I got it on eBay, as most sizes are out of production. The ideal model is the .875 i.d. (inside diameter) as it is a slip fit on the Ruckus pipe. However, you can use any size 3" o.d. (outside diameter) SuperTrapp, and sleeve it at the junction to fit. They all have a 1 3/4" core so, as long as you securely attach the inlet to your pipe end, the i.d. of the muffler inlet doesn't matter. The only two models of the 3" Steel Dirtbike Muffler still in production are 1.25" and 1.50" i.d., both of which are easily adaptable, and inexpensive. I assume you can buy those direct from Kerker (Supertrapp), but any motorcycle shop could order them from the Tucker / Rocky catalog. You would also need the 4-stroke packing kit, sold separately, same sources and by Dennis Kirk among others, which is still in production. If you want bling, they have stainless and aluminum models, like those on the end of some aftermarket pipes, or even some dirtbike models with internal discs, but all are more expensive. Footnote: I rode today behind my Ruckus (on my Reflex) with my son driving it, so I now have a more objective opinion of the noise level. It really is not bad, compared to noisy Harleys or others. Not nearly as loud as it seems when riding it, or in comparison to a stock Ruckus.
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sfc
Junior Ruckster
Posts: 76
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Post by sfc on Jul 17, 2005 22:02:59 GMT -5
What kind of top speed difference or general performance difference have you noticed other than being able to go down hill at 47? Have you noticed and increase on the flats? What jetting changes did you have to make?
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sfc
Junior Ruckster
Posts: 76
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Post by sfc on Jul 17, 2005 22:06:21 GMT -5
Also, I have never used a slip fit...is there welding involved to attach it to the pipe?
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Post by jimthejet on Jul 18, 2005 18:55:08 GMT -5
What kind of top speed difference or general performance difference have you noticed other than being able to go down hill at 47? Have you noticed and increase on the flats? What jetting changes did you have to make? 8-)Top speed on flats increased 3 mph vs. stock exhaust with the same prior mods (6g variator weights, CDI, opened up airbox, and jetting to suit). Rejetting was required. Follow instructions on Battlescooter.com under Tech, Intake and Ignition and also other threads here. The jetting I use only pertains to my local climate, altitude, weight, frontal area, riding style and the other mods (or lack thereof, such as shaving Variator spacer). The slip fit just means that one piece slips over the other with no significant interference. You just clamp the larger diameter over the other, using a hose clamp for example. I started with one, but found a galvanized (painted flat black) cast steel plumbing clamp that fit. This is a sub-$100 exhaust system vs. the $300 aftermarket noise (and not power) makers. No welding is required, but of course it would make a more permanent assemblage.
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Post by Robo-Mod on Jul 19, 2005 11:30:22 GMT -5
I called a tude bending shop in my area and they said that they would do a header pipe for $90, and weld on the universal mounting tabs that come with the supertrapp.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jul 19, 2005 13:31:33 GMT -5
Why not use the stock pipe and just cut the stock muffler off? They'd weld the muffler on then for like 10$. Perhaps you want to keep the stocker complete as a back up.....Anyways, just make sure the inner diameter of the pipe is identical.
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