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Post by Vishnuk on Dec 3, 2004 15:49:51 GMT -5
Just a quick question to the knowledgeable rucksters out there. Is it possible to just crimp the wire connections for the cdi install and not solder any of it? I vehemently abhor soldering and would like to avoid both A: soldering, and B: buying a soldering gun and assorted accessories needed. Thanks in advance! ;D
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Post by chanito on Dec 3, 2004 16:26:02 GMT -5
Soldering is the prefer method, but is not the only way, crimping, even though i hate it, when done properly is almost as good, make shure you clean the wires good, use a good crimping tool so you know the connections are tight, becouse that is the major problem with crimping, loose connections atract corrotion and that atract resistance, then seal them good with a good quality electric tape, wich by the way work best when strech to three times it lenght, you do not have to be that presice but strech the tape not just wrap it, good luck  ;D |
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Post by Vishnuk on Dec 3, 2004 18:15:50 GMT -5
Thanks! Would smearing a bit of that electric grease stuff on the wires be a good idea too to prevent the corrosion you speak of?
I never knew that about electric tape... good stuff, once again thanks.
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Post by chanito on Dec 3, 2004 19:07:59 GMT -5
Yes dielectric grease would be a great idea. By the way did you figure out what is wrong with your carb.  |
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Post by abe on Dec 4, 2004 16:04:50 GMT -5
Second that ;D I always solder. Water gets under tape covers, everywhere and ruins everything. I use NoOx
on connections that are not soldered.
You should solder buddy.
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Post by Vishnuk on Dec 4, 2004 18:16:53 GMT -5
Fine, fine...I'll solder, but I won't be happy about it.
About the carb...no clue. I brought it all back to stock and it runs the same as it did with the open air-box and 95 jet and no shim. The ecm cutout at top-speed (~36mph) isn't as pronounced though. Acceleration isn't much fun anymore. Grrr...I liked that open box torqeuyness that it gave me. I've cleaned my carb, everything is sealed tight, so I'm going to put a new plug in. I read some old post where scribble was having some sluggishness problem and his plug was fugged up a bit and causing the problem. We'll see, I don't think I'll be tinkering with the carb again until I can afford that sweet enclosed pod-filter. I'll have my vengeance then.
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Post by abe on Dec 6, 2004 5:13:37 GMT -5
Oh yes you will my friend  Hey, I wonder if your valves are out of wack |
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Post by Vishnuk on Dec 7, 2004 23:09:39 GMT -5
They shouldn't be too bad after a thousand miles I'd think. Now that I know to bend the gauge to measure the space I think I'll be able to find out soon enough. I'll do that when I solder  the cdi in. I'm probably old school, but can't I just wait until the valves start clacking before adjusting them? |
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Post by zoomerman on Dec 8, 2004 0:56:20 GMT -5
If they're clacking it would mean they're loose. It's when they get quiet that you get concerned.
I have my idle low on my Ruckus, 1200rpm-ish and I hear a light ticking at idle, and I've just checked them; they were slightly loose so I left them alone.
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Post by Vishnuk on Dec 9, 2004 0:04:39 GMT -5
I thought on the late 60's, early 70's cafe racers that it was time for a valve adjustment once the ticking got super loud. |
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Post by zoomerman on Dec 9, 2004 10:39:07 GMT -5
Yeah super loud is bad. Some engines' valves loosen over time and some tighten.
From what I hear, the ruckus's valves get tighter with time.
When they're too tight, your valves don't close all the way and you burn valves and loose power. Too loose and the valves get hammered on.
I think those 60's bikes had a cam down low with push-rods and we've got new tech with overhead cam.
I'm not a mechanic, but my brother is, and that's what I gathered from him.
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Post by chanito on Dec 9, 2004 12:31:04 GMT -5
Ok let me see if i can explain this, in the good old days gas used to have lead on it and that lubricated the top end of the engine, then we find out we were damaging our enviroment so we started using cat converters to clean the exhaust fumes, they however were damaged by the lead aditives on the gas so we removed the lead from the gas therefore creating unleaded gas. When lead used to lubricated the top end, valves and their seats (where the head of the valve seals) used to have a very long and happy life so the wear was located on the tip of the valve stem and the cam lobes, the more they wear, the further apart they got, so the valves got a lot more gap than they used to, therefore loose. Now with no lead on the gas, valves and their seats have a dry no lube life, car manufacturers use very exotic materials for the valve seats to prevent premature wear on the seats, even though Honda uses very good materials on their engines, appears that the seats and valve faces are wearing more than usual, and that sinks the valves in the heads, therefore shortening the gap, if this gets very bad then there is no gap at all, preventing the valves from sealing, and that is our problem with the valves, hope you guys can understand my explanation |
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