|
|
Post by pain merchant on Nov 1, 2004 23:01:55 GMT -5
Howdy folks, I believe this is my first post but I have been on this site a lot just reading. This might already be posted but what is the advantage to buying the variator on the battle scooter store. I know you can get different roller weights for the stock variator but what are some positives about switching variators all together. I'm going to try to do some drive mods first and see where that takes me. Can I open up the air box a little and just shim the needle and be fine or do I have to jet. It seems everyone has so many issues finding the right jet I don't even want to mess with it. I'm having that slipping issue everyone else has and I'm just under 400 miles. I don't really care much about top end speed, I just want it zippy. I have my camo ruckus on my college campus so there's never really any time I get it over 35mph. I'm so used to riding my Honda CB900 Custom and having so much power behind the throttle and my scoot just doesn't cut it for me. I need some zip in my life so I'd appreciate some input. Thanks in advance.
|
|
|
|
Post by Dandy Dan on Nov 2, 2004 0:04:52 GMT -5
If your gonna stick with the stock variator then i'd suggest going with 6, 6 gram roller weights. You'll notice a real difference with that. Some have said they've lost some top end but i haven't tried it yet so i can't say for sure. I'm running 3 stock (7.5gram) and 3, 6 grams and i noticed a nice difference but you'd get much more with 6 of em. I've got more weights coming from the store and in a couple weeks i'll know better.
Regarding the 'speed variator'. First off do you understand how a variator works? If you don't go under 'tuning' and then click on the thread 'ruckus tranny explained'. There's some nice pics there that lay it out real nice.
As to how the speed variator differs i imagine its in the slope of the convex (?) shaped plates that push the belt up. The slope likely differs which may keep it geared lower longer or something for better acceleration. It seems to me like you could achieve the same top gear ratio by shortening the spacer (through trial and error) and achieve the same gearing off the line (through the right roller weights), the difference would be the in between midrange.
What it comes down to is would you like to pay 70$ for:
- better acceration throughout your midrange
- either top speed improvement or time savings in playing with your spacer length (and possible $$ savings if you wreck a few spacers at 10$ each)
Perhaps it somehow launches harder as well through quicker engagement or something...totally guessing though.
I hope i haven't misrepresented either product. I'm just kinda summarizing all the info i've read all over this site. Not much is from personal experience.
Keep in mind with either variator you'll still need to buy roller weights. The choice is yours.
|
|
|
|
Post by Vishnuk on Nov 2, 2004 0:16:26 GMT -5
You'd need to replace the clutch spring to get quicker engagement. I think basically your getting a quicker accelerating variator than with the stock one. Really probably isn't that much difference, but the roller weights are definitely worth it. If your really cheap/poor you can do what zoomerman did and bore out the stock rollers to get lighter ones.
|
|
|
|
Post by fox on Nov 2, 2004 10:43:43 GMT -5
What college you go to?
|
|
|
|
Post by pain merchant on Nov 2, 2004 12:39:55 GMT -5
I go to the University of Wisconsin Whitewater and let me say, I got that baddest moped on campus. I get so many compliments and double takes.
|
|
|
|
Post by abe on Nov 4, 2004 18:17:33 GMT -5
Aftermarket variators have a different ramp for the rollers.
The result is a little better acceleration than using just
the weights.
I switched to the aftermarket part because it was better. I
held out for a long time.
|
|
|
|
Post by nuscootr on Nov 4, 2004 23:04:31 GMT -5
Howdy.
well, first of all, I am wickedly pleased with the increase in speed i am getting with my new CDI installed. that is all I have done so far, and I am out-running my buddy's Ruckus (he has installed the same CDI, a Daytona variator (Battlescooter store), and a K&N Air filter. he has also re-jetted to a 90 and shimmed the needle). he seems to have a bit more off the line but i pass him pretty quickly. there is about a 30 pound difference in us (i am lighter, but he is smarter). any ideas why I am faster?
secondly, i too have ordered the Daytona variator and one set of 5.5 weights and one set of 6 gram weights. do i need to re-jet my carb if the CDI and variator are the only mods done? or is carb jetting only applicable when altering the air intake, i.e. when changing the stock air box to something like the K&N set-up?
thanks again,
|
|
|
|
Post by fox on Nov 4, 2004 23:20:51 GMT -5
you only need to rejet the carb if you change something to do with the engine, ie, intake or exhast. variator "edit profanity" deals with the transmission so the air/fuel mix is unaffected by it as the power has already been made, you are just changing how it is delivered to the wheels.
|
|
|
|
Post by nuscootr on Nov 4, 2004 23:38:39 GMT -5
;D wicked. nice one, Fox - appreciate the advice....
|
|
|
|
Post by peshkabz on Nov 8, 2004 15:06:31 GMT -5
Ok you guys' You have my interest peaked on this subject - this is new stuff to me. Get back to you as to what maoney you might be costing me....  |
|
|
|
Post by abe on Nov 9, 2004 5:01:43 GMT -5
You should run a slightly richer main with a CDI. Mostly to prevent detonation.
|
|
|
|
Post by redryder on Jan 23, 2005 21:37:45 GMT -5
Can anyone give me a reasonable estimate of how much and what kind of performance increase I will see if I replace three of the roller weights with 5 gram weights (6.25g avg.) and shorten the spacer to about 35mm? I now have a top speed of 37mph with average acceleration. That's with a stock bike. I'm really not interested in changing the airbox, exhaust, or carb jets. I may consider a new CDI box but that would be in the future. Right now I'm just looking at the drive mods. Thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by zoomerman on Jan 23, 2005 22:17:54 GMT -5
Personally, I would leave the spacer alone, at least for now. Adding the 5 gram weights to your stock ones is a great idea, it's the perfect mix. The difference in acceleration won't snap your neck off, but you'll notice it gets up to speed quicker and pulls up hills much faster.
When you shorten the spacer you'll be sacrificing your acceleration, so unless you live in the country where you spend alot of time at top speed, just leave the spacer alone.
That's my advice. ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by redryder on Jan 24, 2005 11:51:21 GMT -5
My idea is that the lighter roller weights might cost me some top end so 2mm off the spacer could offset it. I'm not really clear on how shortening the spacer to make the belt ride slightly higher would decrease acceleration. But then I'm not a mechanic. I don't want to make the mods only to find that they've offset each other for no difference in performance. BTW I do live in a rural/suburban area. So much of the time I'm at top end. Thanks for the info. Personally, I would leave the spacer alone, at least for now. Adding the 5 gram weights to your stock ones is a great idea, it's the perfect mix. The difference in acceleration won't snap your neck off, but you'll notice it gets up to speed quicker and pulls up hills much faster. When you shorten the spacer you'll be sacrificing your acceleration, so unless you live in the country where you spend alot of time at top speed, just leave the spacer alone. That's my advice. ;D |
|
|
|
Post by zoomerman on Jan 24, 2005 12:56:41 GMT -5
Lighter roller weights don't effect top speed at all.
With a shorter spacer the belt will ride higher on the pulley at all speeds including when you are stopped. Think about a mountain bike... you'll always be starting out with the chain on the big sprocket up front. It's not that dramatic but that should help draw a picture for you.
Have a look under the side cover of your Ruck, and watch the belt drive in action as you rev the engine.
Regarding your rural setting: yes go for the shorter spacer, but I would do one mod at a time, so you can feel the effect of each mod. If you did both the roller weight change and spacer shortening at the same time you wouldn't notice a difference in acceleration (you'd miss out on that fun) though you would see that you're accelerating about the same as before and your top speed would increase by 2 or 3 mph.
|
|
|
|
Post by redryder on Jan 24, 2005 20:05:00 GMT -5
Thanks I see what you are saying. I may hold off on shortening the spacer since the actual time savings would be negligable for the distances that I will be traveling. My main interest in top speed increase was because many of the back roads around here have 40mph speed limits. Then again the top legal speed for an unregistered scooter in my state (49cc or less is considered a moped-scooter and doesn't have to be tagged)is 30mph so I'm already pushing my luck. Thanks again for the advice.  Lighter roller weights don't effect top speed at all. With a shorter spacer the belt will ride higher on the pulley at all speeds including when you are stopped. Think about a mountain bike... you'll always be starting out with the chain on the big sprocket up front. It's not that dramatic but that should help draw a picture for you. Have a look under the side cover of your Ruck, and watch the belt drive in action as you rev the engine. Regarding your rural setting: yes go for the shorter spacer, but I would do one mod at a time, so you can feel the effect of each mod. If you did both the roller weight change and spacer shortening at the same time you wouldn't notice a difference in acceleration (you'd miss out on that fun) though you would see that you're accelerating about the same as before and your top speed would increase by 2 or 3 mph. |
|
