oil change and potential maintenance primer

[ostar]

I picked up on the valuable thread started by Kimikaze on oil changes (thanks), I have a couple of questions coming from some one new to mechanics and with out a manual. I will eventually purchase the service manual for larger scale upgrades but in the meantime I'm hoping to pick up some general information on maintenace. So here we go...

1-(Laugh all you want at this one, a baby has to fall before it can walk, and it always pulls a few chuckles from me...) When I picked up the ruckus the seller told me that the little clear container holding a green tinted substance displaying a high and low indicator was oil...as far as I know, and I was hoping to confirm this is the coolent. With, if , this is established... is the oil deposited through the dip stick entrance simply with a funnel? (My ruckus looks to be one of the 2004 lot distributed with to much oil in the engine, considerably above the hatches on the dip stick, another great thread.)

2-Also, once the oil is drained, is it necessary to pick up a torque wrench for refastening the little gold colored bolt or is it to much of a gamble using carefull feel and a ratchet? A mechanic kind of laughed at me while saying, "Use a ratchet, turn the bolt until it is snug ang gives a little resistance, then give it one last small nudge."

3-And last, what does honda recomend for standard maintenace and intervals (in miles) outside of oil changes? (i.e., belts, brakes, and etc.) Any additional advice on checking and maintaing or optimizing is appreciated.

Just wanted to add that this is a fun little community. I visit it regularly and look forward to a response.

Thanks again,
Orion

[chanito]

Congrats on your ruckus , anyway to answer your questions.
1.-You are correct that green tinted substance is your coolant, that tank is your over flow tank just like the one in your car, so NEVER put oil on that tank, the oil goes thru the dipstick entrance with a funnel, the ruckus uses .6 liters wich is less than a quarter, so use a measuring cup, i used the glass one they use for cooking and my wife saw me doing it and almost killed me so i bought a new one for her and i am keeping the old one for ruckus duty.
2.-The torque wrench is a good idea becouse the engine in the ruckus is aluminum and the plug can easily damage the threaths in the case, most car oil pans are stamped steel and can take a LOT more abuse, be safe invest in a torque wrench.
3.-Factory recommends 600 miles for oil change, air filter at 7.5 k miles, sparks plugs at 15 k miles. every thing else is more or less inspect and replace if it needs it, by the way the torque specs are
spark plug 12 N-M (9 ft-lb)
Oil drain bolt 25 N-M (18 ft-lb)

Enjoy your ride ;D ;D

[Ruckass]

Yeah, what Chanito said! Get a torque wrench. I learned the hard way on my driven face. That little aluminum baby cost me $50. The torque wrench was cheaper.

Ruckass

[ostar]

Thanks for the response. I will eventually post some links of pics and etc., just want to get all squared away. A couple days ago I installed an Armed Guard ATV Sport alarm, I would recommend another model, the shock sensor literally has to be flicked to activate. But the ignition sensor on top of the tilt trigger inside the case under the handle bars should keep my ruckus safe enough. My favorite part is the little red blinking light I installed below and between the the fuel and highbeam light. This little warning light looks factory installed ( I only used a drill) plus it looks real cool in the dark, and with all mentioned above in addition to the stearing lock I should beable to keep away most would be thiefs. (I was originally using my ruckus for work on a route in a rough area of LA county, but was relocated to an area with less murders...luckily.)

One last question, where can I pick up a torque wrench at a reasonable price? I haven't checked Sears yet. Kragen only has those huge ones that might weigh more then my ruckus and are over $50. I found several sellers on ebay, but would rather pick up something more local and avoid shipping.

Thanks again.

Orion

[Duster]

Almost any large auto-parts store will have tools.
Usually a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench will measure INCH
pounds. The 3/8 inch & 1/2 inch drive will measure FOOT pounds. A small 3/8 drive is probably all you'll need.

[ostar]

Heres another thing I was curios on...I am guessing that it isn't possible to fill up at a gas station, I cound't get the pump to secure itself and activate at the station. Is there some small trick, or will I need to pick up one of those big gas containers?

I will be heading out for the torque wrench in a couple of minutes, I found three auto stores to check out. Thanks again,

Orion

[Ruckass]

I don't follow your pump prob. I can fill up at a station. Am I missing something here?

Ruckass

[ostar]

Oil change is complete. The oil I removed was dark black, at 400 miles. I look forward to taking it for a trial ride. One thing that still has me baffled is the filter secured by an "o" ring mentioned in Kimikaze's thread. I was looking under the ruckus and trying to match what was described...I'm a little more visual. Exactly where should I be looking, and does any solvent do for cleaning the filter? Some more detail on the process with this filter would be a great help.

I will ride down to a different gas station and try pumping gas again.

Thanks for holding my hand as I do my best to walk, kind of emabrising...some of my questions. This is really my introduction to engine-mechanics.

Thanks again, and I look forward to a response.

Orion

[ostar]

I took the ruckus for a spin. It feels like I lost a little power and speed. Its running about 5mph less then usual, up hill and etc. And the engine doesn't seem to idle with the same consistencies. I used Castrol GTX 10-40w, and the oil is filled just above the halfway within the mesh on the stick (.6 Quart). Any ideas?

thanks,
orion

[chanito]

Great, you acomplish your first oil change, in the very front of the engine is a cover, and behind this cover goes the screen that acts as a filter, cleaning it with a good solvent should do the trick, it is a good oportunity to check for pieces of metal or something like shavings if every thing seems ok then you are ok, about your loosing power it is just the scooter been cold, drive it around and everything would be peachy ;D ;D

[ostar]

Thanks Chanito,
Is the cover for the filter the black plastic piece that is about the size of legal paper which is also laying over the bottom side of the gass tank. If it is, I am having some trouble finding out how to remove it. I tried removing the little black bolt on the same side as the oil drain bolt located around the middle of the plastic panel. The female side, which was attached to a tube, I believe it leads to the rear brake, it fell inside and I had a good time getting it back into place with a needle nose...that was of course after a good amount of time trying to figure out how to remove the plastic cover. I dont know...maybe I am way off.

I will be taking the ruckus for a good ride today...oh yeah I also picked up a measuring cup for the oil, I took your advice and avoided one of my girlfriend's from the kitchen...thanks for the "heads up." It looks like the factory puts in a little over a quart of oil.

Here is a online calculator I used for conversion on the measuring cup...
www.curezone.com/conversions.asp

Thanks again for your help,
Orion

[Duster]

Almost sounds like too much oil. I wonder if some of us got the wrong dip-stick. I read the owners manual, followed the directions, CAREFULLY measured the amount, checked the level 3 times as I added new oil, reading the dipstick WITHOUT screwing it in, & when I finished, I ran slower too. After a couple of days of use, I drained a slight amount, just down to to the bottom of the top cross-hatch, & I got back that couple of miles-per-hour & it ran like it did when I first got it from the dealer. The second oil change turned out exactly the same way. Do it by the book, & I ran slower. Drain down to the bottom of the top cross-hatch, & it runs better. Go figure.
First oil change at 604, second at 1501, & will change every 1000 from there-on. A quart of oil is cheap insurance, & we don't even use a quart each time. Be safe.

[Ruckass]

When I changed my oil I just measured the amount that came out and put exactly that much back in. It was slighty less than .6 litres.

Ruckass
The coolant was a bit tougher.

[ostar]

Chanito...so far so better. Maybe the fluids just had to get moving around in there. There is a some more consitencies in the enginge sound...a little more of a purrrrr, I took the ruckus for a 60 mile ride. At .6 quarts the oil shows just below the halfway point within the hatches on the dipstick, I was tempted to add a little more oil to see if there was a difference.

Thanks for everybodies help, and if anybody else has some more detailed advice/intstructions on the filter mentioned in my last post...it would be greatly appreciated.

Maybe someday I will graduate from n00b status.

Next step, clean that filter...then...
GET THE SERVICE MANUAL.

I think I have found a natural undiscovered love for auto engineering, this board has become a great place to start. And to think what started out as an economical decision turned into an unfathomed flame. I'm sure my "little lighting" will have much to do with the multitude of projects ahead.

Sincerely,
Orion

[ostar]

Thanks Kim...
Here's another note on a previous matter in an earlier post regarding the Gas Pump issue.

Here in CA/LA, as you may know, famous for our smog...there is a plastic seeler that has to be pushed back allowing the pump to keep fumes from dissipating. There is a little metal cross bar in the gas hatch which obstructs the pump from making a tight seel. When the plastic isn't pushed back the gas will not flow from the pump. The work around is to manually pull back the "plastic spring" seeler with one hand while engaging the pumps trigger with the other. Just a special note for any would be travelers to CA.

I save approximatly $8 a day on gas. Imagine how beatiful Los Angeles would be if everybody drove a scooter.

Orion

[chanito]

Just in case i took a picture of the oil filter cover is in fr of the engine just on top of the scuff plate, is the one with the red pen pointing to it

by the way the torque specs are 20 N-m or 14 ft-lbs wich
is less than oil drain

[zoomerman]

Way to Go Chanito !

That's what I was going to do if I had my Ruckus. It was hurting me to hear how lost Orion was, but I knew I'd need to write a thousand words to describe where it is.

Keep in mind Orion, that the manual says check that filter screen every 7500 miles. So check it now just to see if there's any big chunks of metal in it, then forget about it.

Final tip: Clean that area before you undo the nut.


Oh one last thing, Welcome to Ruckus Central Orion ! ;D

Zoooomerman

[ostar]

Amazing, I never expected an actual pic, wow...this community is awesome. Thank you very much for the help. I look forward to sharing all endeavors associated with my Ruckus. Chanito, Zoooomerman, Ruckass, Duster, and Kimikaze thanks so much for the help and support.

Sincerely,
Orion