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Post by abe on May 17, 2004 17:46:16 GMT -5
If you think you have the power to pull it you can grind the variator spacer to increase top speed. Remove the variator and spacer. Grind the spacer, remove less than 1/16". If you remove more than 1/16" on a stock Ruckus you will be pushing it up hills  Make sure to add the thickness you remove back on the washer, or use two. Remember your taking away length from the variator "edit profanity". and the output shaft stays the same. You need to shim to make up the difference. |
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Post by scrible88 on May 17, 2004 23:15:03 GMT -5
If you think you have the power to pull it you can grind the variator spacer to increase top speed. Remove the variator and spacer. Grind the spacer, remove less than 1/16". If you remove more than 1/16" on a stock Ruckus you will be pushing it up hills Lol, don't plan on doing that. My Ruckus already has enough trouble on hills here in Georgia. 25mph on most inclines.. That's the only thing I dislike about my Ruckus. |
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Post by abe on May 18, 2004 21:10:01 GMT -5
Well when you get the power  |
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jul 13, 2004 17:41:26 GMT -5
I'm planning to shorten my variator spacer but i have a few questions:
- What is the spacer made out of? Metal, Plastic? What you guys using to grind it shorter.
- Would you recommend taking a full 1/16 off or less? I know some people have posted saying they have taking off less and still noticed a 1-2 mph gain. Basically what do you think the sweet spot is where you still have midrange power?
- I tried to take my variator off yesterday but i was unable to loosen the bolt. I couldn't hold it with a rag tight enough so i ended up trying vice grips which only caused me to tear a small piece out of one of the 'fins' on the out side. Any suggestions? I don't have an impact drill.
- What size of washer do i need to make up the difference? 1/2" hole??? Also can you get washers that thin at any hardware store?
Thanks,
Dan
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Post by chanito on Jul 13, 2004 19:14:11 GMT -5
I just bough a ruckus a i love it, i use it to go to work becouse we can not longer park were i work we have to park at a company parking garage and get bused to work, after being tired of having to wait for the bus at the end of the day, i got my ruckus so i can parked inside the shop, the problem i had was the top speed of the vehicle was too low for the drive in us1, i open up the airbox by using a drill and drill the sluts in the airbox all the way thru to the pipe (airway) that goes from the buttom of the airbox into the filter housing, i also open up the pipe a little bit, and shortened the variator spacing by 1mm, now i get to 40 mph but i takes a long time to get there, i hope to get into jetting the carb to see if i get more pick up  |
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Post by abe on Jul 14, 2004 18:03:06 GMT -5
I'm planning to shorten my variator spacer but i have a few questions: - What is the spacer made out of? Metal, Plastic? What you guys using to grind it shorter. - Would you recommend taking a full 1/16 off or less? I know some people have posted saying they have taking off less and still noticed a 1-2 mph gain. Basically what do you think the sweet spot is where you still have midrange power? - I tried to take my variator off yesterday but i was unable to loosen the bolt. I couldn't hold it with a rag tight enough so i ended up trying vice grips which only caused me to tear a small piece out of one of the 'fins' on the out side. Any suggestions? I don't have an impact drill. - What size of washer do i need to make up the difference? 1/2" hole??? Also can you get washers that thin at any hardware store? Thanks, Dan The spacer is made of steel. It's best to grind just a little at a time. You can use a file or your neighbors bench grinder. They sell holders for removing the variator, maybe I should sell them. If you get a big wrench and have a second person hold the variator you should be able to get it off. Don't worry about the damage you caused. Just don't do it again  The hardware store will have the washer you need but you may need to grind the OD of the washer to fit. The normal washer thickness is fine. |
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Post by Dandy Dan on Aug 27, 2004 6:10:55 GMT -5
Does the washer thinkness need to be exactly the same amount as what you've grinded off the spacer or can you go a bit more/less? I planning on shortenin up my spacer early next week.
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Post by abe on Aug 31, 2004 17:53:37 GMT -5
It only needs to be thick enough to cover the splines on the crankshaft. If you booger those up your in trouble  |
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Post by Doctavian on Sept 5, 2004 22:42:16 GMT -5
RENT AN ELECTRIC IMPACT GUN >>>> thats all I have to say. Oops Makita was what I rented and it did the job great!
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Post by chanito on Oct 9, 2004 12:44:27 GMT -5
I shortened the spacer the first time to 36mm and it was great i got to 38 mph and i could consitently get there after i make a homemade windscreen, wich is a big surpirse considering how small it is, 12 by 14 inches that is the size of the lexan screen i bought at Home Depot, any way since i also installed a tach at the same time, i discovered that it has a rpm limiter at 8000 rpm, so i made the big mistake of shortening the spacer another mm to 35 and grind the stop at the variator belt rump so the ramps could get closer and therefore taking full advantage of the shortening, now i get to 38mph at 7000rpm but the scooter takes forever to get there and has no pick up, before it got to 38mph and hit the limiter at 8000rpm, but it had decent pick up, so i think i would have to install some 1mm washer to get back to the 36 mm spacer  . I should have stopped when i was ahead |
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Post by abe on Oct 11, 2004 9:19:41 GMT -5
You can go for lighter rollers. It will takeoff faster and if they are light enough you may get your ratio back in check.
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Post by chanito on Oct 11, 2004 18:08:06 GMT -5
Yeah. i was thinking about that, but i am scare i will be close to 7000 rpm all the time, i think i will try the needle and main jet first, right now my biggest problem is that whenever i roll from a stand still stop the engine seems to hesitates and tries to die, i am blaming it in the needle, but i will wait for the weekend to try to fix it, thanks for the advise, i am a mechanic at an Infiniti dealership, but carburators is something i have not work on for quite sometime, anyway i will let you guys know if i fix it and how.
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Post by chanito on Oct 13, 2004 19:55:01 GMT -5
I made a shim ot of pop rivet and installed under the neddle and the accelation got better, not as good as before but i can live with it, today i finally reach the other side of the overheating led right in front of the 40 mph mark . I found out that the best shims are the heads of a 1/8" pop rivets they are cheap, easy to find and all you have to do is just cut the flat part of the head, and bingo instant spacer, just make shure the spacer fits in the dip at the end of the seat so you could lock the plastic holder back in place |
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Post by abe on Oct 15, 2004 6:05:18 GMT -5
Great  Have you checked your valves? |
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Post by Dandy Dan on Oct 15, 2004 9:58:16 GMT -5
Chanito,
You mentioned that your ruckus ran the fastest with a 36 mm spacer. I ordered a spacer from honda so that i can keep shortening it until its too short and they grind the other one to what ever length was the best. You mentioned that 36mm seems to be the sweet spot but i measured both of my spacers and the stock length on em 36.2mm. To go from 36.2 to 36 is a reduction of 0.008 inch or 1/125 of inch. So basically its no different. I'm wondering if perhaps there's some margin of error in the stock length and yours was longer. If i go to 35mm then my reduction is still under 1/16'' (about 1/20). Do you know what your stock length was?
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Post by chanito on Oct 15, 2004 21:26:43 GMT -5
No i did not measure the stock lenght of the variator spacer, but i measure when i grind it down, becouse i want it to be a whole number, so it had to be bellow 37mm, but i also notice that the surface of the part of the outer belt sliding cone ( the part where the spacer rest) that will touch the inner cone was machine rough so i smooth it out, and that was also close to a milimeter, but check it out remove the variator and just close both parts of the variator where the belt runs and you see how much closer they will get just by smoothing out this surface  |
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Post by chanito on Oct 19, 2004 21:28:46 GMT -5
I think that the best compromise so far is to grind the spacer to 35mm and shim the needle, open the airbox by grinding the slots in the air filter cover, they will allow a lot more air and if you are careful the intake still will be higher than the slits so water would have a hard time going up. The mistake i made was i coated the moving face of the variator with silicone grease, this will make the weights shot out a lot faster and made the pick up speed go down the drain, i ended taking down the variator again, clean the weights and rollers, lube only the spacer outerwall, and install it again, i used a router to grind the bushing where the spacer fits perfectly flat and this allows both faces of the variator to run closer, if you are patient you can trim it untill when put together the belt outer surface will be even with the outside of the variator. make sure the rollers are clean and lube free, same as the ramps where they ride. So far i got to about 41 mph at just below 8000 rpm, on a flat road with my 5'10" 220 lbs body on top in a normal riding position Let me know if this helps, and if you find something that might help us, let us know. |
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Post by chanito on Oct 7, 2005 7:27:39 GMT -5
Wow! how much we had evolve from this old posts
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