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Post by Blackruk on Mar 16, 2006 13:54:01 GMT -5
I bought my ruk used w/600 miles on it. I changed the oil as soon as I brought it home, but didn't check the idle speed. It sounded a little high, but I didn't have a reference point or a tach, so I figured it was close enough. I got a Tiny Tach a few weeks ago. I hooked it up and - WOW - the idle was at about 3500+ RPM. I with this idle speed for about 900 miles.
Question 1 - do you think this damaged the clutch, or just gave it some extra wear, and how do I tell?
I immediately reset the idle to about 2000 rpm (on a 60 degree day) with the engine fully warmed up. Problem is, the weather has returned to cold and now the ruk idles at about 1500-1700 rpm. It doesn't stall.
Question 2 - why would the idle slip down from 2000 rpm and does a lower idle speed damage the engine?
Thanks
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Post by tedsmini on Mar 16, 2006 15:12:10 GMT -5
When the idle seemed high to you did you have to keep the brakes on to stop the bike from surging forward? If the answer is no than you did not put any unue wear/stress on the clutches. My idle varies a lot and I know it's just a sensitive enrichening mixture probably controlled electronically and it's just not very precise. ;D
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Post by Dandy Dan on Mar 16, 2006 15:33:52 GMT -5
When your engines coolant is below 35 Celcius the cold enrichment valve is open which makes your idle pretty iradic. When ever you are doing the tuning make sure you have let the scooter idle for a couple minutes so this isn't an issue.
Anyways, having the idle set high won' have done any damage unless you had the brakes on like Ted said or if you have a kickstand or longer shock. If your wheel isn't free to spin then the clutch will slip which is bad because it wears it out and it can overheat. However, a normal Ruckus on the center stand won't have any problems.
Anyways, a lower idle speed shouldn't damage your engine and the reason that it's lower when it's cold is likely because cold engines have a harder time vapourizing the cold gas so it isn't as perfectly misted. As a result, it doesn't burn as well so you make a little less power and thus your idle is lower. 1500-1700 is fine as long as it's not stalling on you.
Oh, one other thing. When you had the idle set too high did the rear tire spin on the center stand? If so, then it is a bit hard on your clutch when you are sitting at a red light etc because the clutch is partially engaged. You might have put some extra wear and tear on your clutch pads but nothing too serious. Mine are due for replacement for the first time and I've got 30,000kms on mine.
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Post by Blackruk on Mar 16, 2006 17:51:18 GMT -5
Yes, it did try to surge forward at red lights and yes I did have to keep the brakes on to keep the wheel from spinning when on the center stand. Not having had a scooter before (I rode motorcycles), I wasn't sure how the whole automatic transmission thing worked. Now I understand.
I usually take either short, non-stop rides (to train station and back) or long cruises with few red lights. So, not too much time with the brake on, other than warming the engine up for a few minutes.
How will I know when the clutch is shot?
And, as usual, thanks for the valuable advice.
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Post by Jasper on Mar 16, 2006 18:14:41 GMT -5
dont worry, takes quite alot of miles to use up the clutch  the ruck is made to last! |
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Post by Dandy Dan on Mar 16, 2006 20:24:29 GMT -5
I had the idle set too high for about 4 months and mine wanted to surge forward at lights too. The clutch in a scooter works by having the pads that fly out due to centripetal force and there are little springs trying to pull them in. When you're idling slow the springs are able to hold the springs in but once you exceed about 2500 rpm the pads fly out and grip the walls and engage things.
To check if your pads are shot just take the drive cover off and then use a strap wrench and socket to remove the rear 'clutch bell' . Then you'll see the pads and you just measure how thick they are. However, regardless of what you're idle was at, there's no way they are even close to being worn out after 600 miles.
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wonderslicer
Junior Ruckster
Ruckass sold me his wicked scoot so be nice to me ok
Posts: 97
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Post by wonderslicer on Mar 17, 2006 10:34:36 GMT -5
Have you changed the spring in your clutch yet DD? I know you had a problem with the aftermarkets, but I can recall if you're running the original.
I'm cleaning th cltuch out this wekend to try and get some hill climing gain (I think my neighbours are tired of following me at 40km uphill) but I might also try a new spring.
Also, wayne at wjiangwayne showed me a neat trick for pulling the clutch apart (I may have mentioned it): stand on the edges with the sides of both feet when it's flat on the ground, the rachet away on the nut.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Mar 17, 2006 11:51:25 GMT -5
Do you mean the big compression spring or the small clutch springs? Anyways, I got 2 compression springs from VT Cycles in Hawaii but they didn't fit. I also got the clutch shoe springs and they might have been okay but I was a little uncomfortable with my engagement RPM being so high and it still felt like they were only partially engaged. If I had a tach I could say for sure.
Currently, my rear clutch is totally stock but I'm rebuilding it soon. I've got a new compression spring and I'm getting new pads. As is, it seems slow reacting and it feels like the pads are worn out.
Wonder, lighter rollers will help your hill climbing power too because the rear clutch will have an easier time downshifting if it doesnt have to fight such heavy rollers. I think the biggest problem with mine is that it's gummy and the spring is old.
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Post by z.k on Sept 11, 2023 17:10:41 GMT -5
rukus starts ok but afterwarmup it idles very high please advise on remedy
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Post by z.k on Sept 11, 2023 17:14:31 GMT -5
rukus starts ok but afterwarmup it idles very high please advise on remedy |
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