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Post by varroa on Jan 6, 2008 17:42:22 GMT -5
Depends, but mostly is around 1HP or a 25% power boost so, if stock i can reach 43-45 mph going on flat asphalt with no wind and about 60 deg F, then i should be able to hit at least 50 mph given that i have the gearing and under the same conditions?
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Post by Kami no Chiizu on Jan 6, 2008 18:06:30 GMT -5
In theory. But friction wind resistance becomes a bigger factor the faster you go, so unless your driving in a vacuum...
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Post by chanito on Jan 6, 2008 19:12:40 GMT -5
:DKami is becoming an expert The top speed is going to be the same unless you change the gearing, the only difference is you will be there a lot faster, i have a set of metro gears and i ride at 45 constantly at 8000 rpms. Only once in the mountains of Tennessee, going down hill i was able to get to 50 mph, i was over 9000 rpms But then again i am 225 lbs
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Post by varroa on Jan 7, 2008 16:24:44 GMT -5
In theory. But friction wind resistance becomes a bigger factor the faster you go, so unless your driving in a vacuum... i kind of roughly took the wind resistance into consideration, because simply saying, if driving in vacuum, i would be able to hit over 55 with met gears and a kn variator. but the wind resistance increases in arithmetic progression, so i will probably only reach 55 when going down a very steep and long heel (they don't exist anyways. in texas =0)) but, in a windless weather, on flat ground, having the necessary gearing, intake and exhaust, and proper jetting, i should hit at least 50. if not, then bb is not worth it. i can regularly reach 45 on flat stock!!!
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Post by Kami no Chiizu on Jan 7, 2008 18:30:27 GMT -5
Can you hit or can you cruise at 45?
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ezp
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 43
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Post by ezp on Jan 7, 2008 20:41:24 GMT -5
Guys, I just can't figure it out. What is the final cost of getting my '03 big bored? And what is the official process? It seems that every single person with the BB wants to make sweet love to Chanito, which I can only interpret to mean the BB is by far one of the best, if not the best, Ruckus mod there is. Thanks.
P.
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Post by chanito on Jan 7, 2008 21:47:39 GMT -5
OK let me try to explain this one more time, our engines (03-05) run to 8k rpms due to design limits. Some changes on the 06 model allow this speed to be risen to 8850 rpms, the engine is design to keep that speed nicely, so if you can get to 45 on a stock ruckus at 8850, it will still get to 45 on a big bore at 8850, now having more power means it will climb up to speed faster and once there it will keep it nicely, so pulling from stop lights is quicker, hills do not lower your speed as much, and accel from 20 to 30 in case you need it is way quicker. this extra power changes the behavior of the ruckus quite a bit, making it more enjoyable. But power alone is not all there is in a ride experience. One of the lessons from the fall ride was that Kamino and Skuuter would spank my big bore, fancy Michelin shod ruckus in their stock rides because they could ride way better and are lighter, the extra power allowed me to keep up with them on long hill-climbs even though i out-weight them by at least 60 pounds and the metro gears will give me the speed to pass them on down hills if i grind my teeth hard enough And on the last day on a long downhill straight i managed for the first and only time to get to the magical 50 MPH at well over 9000 rpms (not a good thing for a little scooter motor) But hey i belong to the 50 mph club now
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Post by Kami no Chiizu on Jan 8, 2008 2:42:48 GMT -5
Yeah, I can safely say while it seems like the '04 Ruckii pull better uphill than '06s, at least it seems like it from our limited experience, a Big Bore Ruckus (or a Metro/Jazz) will blow by going uphill. It's just they seem to hit the brakes in turns... once again, from my experience.
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ezp
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 43
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Post by ezp on Jan 8, 2008 12:32:23 GMT -5
Guys, I just can't figure it out. What is the final cost of getting my '03 big bored? And what is the official process? It seems that every single person with the BB wants to make sweet love to Chanito, which I can only interpret to mean the BB is by far one of the best, if not the best, Ruckus mod there is. Thanks. P. Guys, I was hoping to get an answer to these questions. I have tried, but I just can't seem to find out what the exact process is and how much the final bill would be for the BB..... thanks. P.
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Post by chanito on Jan 8, 2008 18:43:26 GMT -5
OK, the kit is 285.00 having someone bore and hone your engine block 40 to 80 dollars, if you can do the engine work that is it, if you have to pay someone to do it, add 200 to 300 dolars in labor. Hope that answers your question
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ezp
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 43
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Post by ezp on Jan 9, 2008 10:10:40 GMT -5
Thanks chanito, I;ve been curious about the costs of the BB for quite a while. When you say "engine work", do you mean taking the engine apart to pull out the piston hole (or whatever it's called, man, I have a lot to learn)? Once you get the piston hole apart, or maybe it's called the engine block, you take that to the machinist so he/she can make the bore larger. Then, I would put it all back together again? Man, me doing all that sounds like a terrible idea, I've been putting off a valve job and carb cleaning for 6 months cause I'm afraid I will screw it up. Now I'm faced with the possibilty of having to take the engine apart and rebuild it for the BB!!! I'M SCARED (but tempted).
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Post by varroa on Jan 10, 2008 3:42:19 GMT -5
paul, you practically got it. simply put, you disassemble the engine, take the cylider half of the engine out (engine hole, hehehe ), take it to a shop, they bore and hone it to your specs (which chanito has), and then you put the engine together using all the gaskets that are included into the big bore kit. all you need is rukus shop manual, ALL necessary tools, and "handy" hands. and bb kit. you can do it, dr.ezp. just follow all the HOW-TOs on here and totalruckus (here they are a bit better thanks to the expertise of some of the members), and it's simple after that. it took me almost half a year of active reading here at and total ruckus before i checked my valve clearances, but it only took me 20 min to do it. i don't plan on doing my big bore until i get to WA, because then i'll have all the tools i need (make sure you have ALL the tools you will need)
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ezp
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 43
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Post by ezp on Jan 10, 2008 17:28:35 GMT -5
hmmmmmm.....what do you estimate is the down time? After my Ruckus is my mountain bike, and I'll ride that if I have to, but man, i'm out of shape.
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Post by chanito on Jan 10, 2008 19:33:39 GMT -5
Everytime i have done one it took me a month to return the engine But it can be done in a couple of days
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Post by varroa on Jan 11, 2008 2:31:09 GMT -5
by the way, i have another question:
if installing BB, how much is it necessary to install BSS hi-output camshaft? as in, is stock enough or not?
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Post by varroa on Jan 11, 2008 2:36:26 GMT -5
hmmmmmm.....what do you estimate is the down time? After my Ruckus is my mountain bike, and I'll ride that if I have to, but man, i'm out of shape. if you are going to be VERY careful and attentive but will have ALL tools and pre-arrange cylinder boring, it should take you about 2-3 full days, as chanito said.
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Post by Blackruk on Jan 15, 2008 22:49:46 GMT -5
Everytime i have done one it took me a month to return the engine But it can be done in a couple of days But seriously, its well worth the wait to know that your BB install was done right.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Jan 16, 2008 15:26:55 GMT -5
Regarding how long the job takes, I've done a few and it takes me maybe 5 hours of hard work to get the engine out of the scooter and completely torn apart. Then I drop it off at the shop and normally wait 2 days to a week (but it only takes them like 20 min) and then I spend about double the time it took me to tear it apart to put it back together. Putting it back together always takes about double the time because you need to accurately torque the bolts, apply sealant, triple check everything etc. You can just go crazy like you can when you're taking it apart.
Anyone with any mechanical experience who's patient, motivated, organized, has a service manual and is willing to pick up a few tools (flywheel puller, torque wrench) can do this job. The service manual is amazing helpful...it's really a step by step guide. One tip is to go pick up a stack of paper cups and then sort your bolts using those. For example, remove all the seat frame bolts, put them in a cup, write 'seat frame bolts' on the cup and then stack the next cup on top of that one and repeat. You end up with a few stacks of cups and you know exactly where each bolt came from.
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ezp
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 43
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Post by ezp on Jan 16, 2008 15:49:19 GMT -5
HMMMMMM........maybe this'll come summertime. AFTER I get my wife a newer used car.
C'MON USED LEXUS IS300!!!!! I NEED YOU TO HAVE LOW MILES AND COST LESS THAN 18K!!!!!
Only then will I commit to the double B...but I will be lurking. so watch out!
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Post by varroa on Jan 16, 2008 16:10:08 GMT -5
Only then will I commit to the double B...but I will be lurking. so watch out! it's funny, because my last name starts with B and i don't have a middle name...
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