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Post by timberwolfmadcat on Apr 1, 2006 17:59:12 GMT -5
Just a quick ?, i see there are two numbers
IN .003 "
OUT .004 "
Precisely what are they refering too, and what happens if your valves are too tight, seeing as i cant even fit a .002" in there, and i have everything aligned right from the shop manual ?
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Post by timberwolfmadcat on Apr 1, 2006 18:00:18 GMT -5
Is IN refering to the shim on the inside  and out refering to the outer diameter Some  would be greatly appreciated |
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Post by Docta on Apr 2, 2006 0:37:35 GMT -5
Not sure where those #'s come from but My '03 manual says that the intake valve is 0.10 + or - 0.03 mm and exhuast is 0.19 + or - 0.03 mm.
What year is your manual?.... and Ruck?
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Post by Dandy Dan on Apr 2, 2006 15:32:50 GMT -5
What page are you looking at Timber? I think that those numbers are just the recommended gaps in inches instead of metric and the IN/OUT is just the intake and exhaust valves.
If your valves are too tight then they stay open a crack which lets all the air out when your engine tries to compress the air/fuel mix. The result is less power plus there is more friction/stress on the cam and valves so stuff wears out quicker. As the engine heats up stuff expands which makes the gap even smaller so you'll run even worse. That's the reason for the gap in the first place.
To get em shimmed right just use the kickstarter to cycle the piston all the way up (poke something in the spark plug hole to feel it moving) and once you've got that just measure the gaps. The intake (top) gap should be .10mm and the exhaust should be .19mm. You do need to be careful with the piston though because when it's all the way up on the compression stroke both the valves should be closed so you can measure the gaps but if it's all the way up on the exhaust stroke then the valves will be open a crack and you're measurements won't work. If you aren't able to get the feeler guage in the cycle the piston up/down once and see if that changes it because you might be at the end of the exhaust stroke.
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Post by timberwolfmadcat on Apr 2, 2006 17:08:20 GMT -5
My gaps are WAY too tight, i measured the inner at .06mm +-.005mm(half the smallest division). I have fairly square feeler gauges though, which i dont think should be a problem. Where is the exhaust shim, is that the one on the bottom Anyways i have a 198 shim in there now, that will be dropping to a 194 tommorow, ill see if that helps. I used the allignments to try and get it right, and noticed my flywheel is very rusted, worth replacing/warranty |
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Post by Dandy Dan on Apr 2, 2006 22:44:29 GMT -5
You're square feeler gauges should be fine. It's actually a good thing because if they were wedge shaped then you'd be able to squeeze them in and actually prop the valve open a bit so you wouldn't get accurate numbers. I'm a little confused about your numbers though. Did you measure the top one at 0.06mm (intake) and the bottom one at 0.005mm (exhaust)? I don't know how you've got a feeler guage that's 0.005mm but anyways....
Assuming your intake (upper) valve has a gap of 0.06mm and It currently has a 198 in it you're right that a 194 is what you want. The only thing is that your 198 shim isn't actually a 198 because Honda rounds the numbers. It's actually a 1.975mm( I don't mean to be anal I'm just trying to explain how their numbering system works.) Honda's shims come in increments of 0.025mm so they go: 190, 192.5, 195, 197.5....etc except they round the 197.5 up to 198 and they round the 192.5 down to 192. Anyways, with that out the way you'll want to go from your 198 to a 192 because that's actually a different of 0.05 which puts your gap at .11mm which is good.\
About the flywheel, mine got pretty rusted on my 03 and totally caked full of stuff but it always worked perfectly. Don't bother replacing it because a new one about 100$.
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Post by jondenver on Apr 3, 2006 13:46:19 GMT -5
So what's the best plan of attack for the shims? Take the measurement and figure out what shims you need then go order them (or hope the local dealer has them) or just order a bunch first? How many different shim sizes are out there?
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Post by Dandy Dan on Apr 3, 2006 14:53:27 GMT -5
If you order about 10 shims from about 205-230 you should be okay but you never know. The shims are about 5$ each so that does get expensive though. The best plan of action IMO is to remove the floorboard and valve cover and measure the gaps and check what shim is in there and then button it up. Then figure out what size shim you need to get the gaps right and go buy it. That'll take a few days to come in so this way you don't have downtime. If you order a bunch that's a fine option except it is expensive. You're local dealer might happen to have the right shim but I haven't had much luck with my local dealer. If you depend on your Ruckus just do what I said but if you don't ride it much or if you have a car too then just open it up and leave it open until you get the right shim.
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Post by jondenver on Apr 3, 2006 22:06:29 GMT -5
Thanks Dan!
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Post by timberwolfmadcat on Apr 4, 2006 15:44:42 GMT -5
Ok my bad, i had it slightly off when i measured it, must've been TDC on the intake. My intake is fine, my exhaust is a little off though clearance was .20mm ish, i could almost fit a .21 in there
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Post by Dandy Dan on Apr 4, 2006 15:47:08 GMT -5
Ok my bad, i had it slightly off when i measured it, must've been TDC on the intake. My intake is fine, my exhaust is a little off though clearance was .20mm ish, i could almost fit a .21 in there .20 or .21 is pretty darn close to .19. I'd be happy with that. but if you get the chance you may as well toss the next size up shim. |
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