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Post by 06ruckpa on Sept 29, 2021 21:37:20 GMT -5
Bought a 2006 that "runs great after it warms up", which was not a total lie. I probably have 35 miles on it since buying it. Added some seafoam to the fuel tank and some Startron to treat the ethanol. Installed a new spark plug. Could use some help trouble shooting it. - It starts easily, but searches RPMs at idle.
- It idles and runs pretty well once warm (especially at WOT), but I can feel it stumble/stutter at mid throttle until its hot (and even then part throttle is not perfect)
- I found today that the airbox tube was not connected to the carb. It was cut on the carb side and not reinstalled. I have one ordered; however, this lead me to discover that at WOT I have atomized fuel spraying out of the carb onto the rear fender.
- I checked the valve lash today, and the intake seems fine at .004. The exhaust is out of spec at .014. Something I intend to fix, but I don't expect its the source of my problems.
This feels like a timing chain issue, but I have not been able to find any info about timing online. Are stretched chains typical? Its logged 11,700miles. Other things I should be looking at?
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Post by Baizy on Oct 2, 2021 23:10:08 GMT -5
Hi, it really seems like you solved the problem when you discovered the airbox tube wasn't connected. That causes what you've described since you'll be running lean with the extra air coming in. You got it!
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Post by 06ruckpa on Oct 3, 2021 12:14:24 GMT -5
Well that would be great if it solved it, the new tube will be here tomorrow. What do you make of the fuel spraying out the back of the carb at full throttle? Seems like it would send raw fuel into the airbox?
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Post by 06ruckpa on Oct 4, 2021 17:15:07 GMT -5
So I installed the intake tube and it was undriveable. RPMs wouldn't come up, it would bog down - no luck with that being the complete fix. Then I pulled the airbox cover/filter and it ran Ok, not great but better than the open carb. Seems like some reduction in airflow was good, but too much kills it. Then I reinstalled the airbox cover without the air filter. It runs pretty well like that. The air filter it came with allows plenty of light through, doesn't seem like it needs replaced. Maybe I go with a K&N filter or something that flows well. No idea if anyone has messed with the carb. Overall everything looks pretty stock. I suppose a previous owner could have played with the jets, or damaged them cleaning them with the wrong tool. Think I'll do a compression test and re-shim that exhaust valve next.
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Post by Baizy on Oct 4, 2021 22:39:43 GMT -5
It's strange that the rucks reacting the way it is, but small engines are like that. The setups you've describes are:
No airbox: pretty lean
Half airbox: kinda lean
Full airbox no filter: pretty ok
Airbox with filter: pretty rich
I'd say someone had that ruckus modified in the past and then took it back to stock, forgot about the big jets they'd slapped in the carb and sold it.
Pull the carb and check the numbers on your jets. You want to see 35 on the skinny one (pilot/slow) and 75 (or 72 if it was a high altitude model) on the thick one (main) if you don't have those numbers stamped on the jets post up what you got.
Checking valves and compression is a great idea too. Take the carb off for the compression test, it'll give the best result. Keep at it!
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Post by 06ruckpa on Oct 5, 2021 9:03:58 GMT -5
It's strange that the rucks reacting the way it is, but small engines are like that. The setups you've describes are: No airbox: pretty lean Half airbox: kinda lean Full airbox no filter: pretty ok Airbox with filter: pretty rich I'd say someone had that ruckus modified in the past and then took it back to stock, forgot about the big jets they'd slapped in the carb and sold it. Pull the carb and check the numbers on your jets. You want to see 35 on the skinny one (pilot/slow) and 75 (or 72 if it was a high altitude model) on the thick one (main) if you don't have those numbers stamped on the jets post up what you got. Checking valves and compression is a great idea too. Take the carb off for the compression test, it'll give the best result. Keep at it! Thanks for the help. |
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Post by 06ruckpa on Nov 7, 2021 15:36:26 GMT -5
Well I got the valves adjusted and I'm surprised by how much that helped. Still no air filter installed, but it does run very well. I've decided to replace the carb with an OEM unit. I reached out the the previous owner and he said he "cleaned the jets", etc. but that there was alot of ethanol crystals in it. With the high mileage and unknown history I think its worth the money. I'll check the numbers on the jets as suggested, but I think the floats hanging up and I expect a fresh Honda carb will solve problems, or at least won't hurt.
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Post by Baizy on Nov 8, 2021 9:12:45 GMT -5
If you have the money to spare you can't beat a new OEM carb for reliability, they just work. Glad to hear the ruck continues to get better and better. Keep having fun with it!
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Post by 06ruckpa on Apr 20, 2022 18:06:32 GMT -5
Well I decided to wait until Spring to put the new Honda carb on and unfortunately its made no difference. It does not want to rev up with an air cleaner in the air box. I even tried a K&N filter in the airbox and small Qazaky (Amazon) cone filter on the end of the airbox side of the air cleaner tube. I did learn that the original carb had not been re-jetted. Slow side jet was clogged in the middle, but it idled ok anyway. Can't find any issues with the hoses to/from the airbox.
I should probably do a compression test, but I'll need to borrow an attachment since the two that came with mine are too large. I've found that I'm getting atomized fuel blowing out the carb onto the rear fender at WOT when the intake hose is removed from the carb inlet. Not sure if that's a sign of a bad intake valve or what. Want to take it to a dusty campground next weekend, and that's why I want to run an air filter.
I feel like this is going to be bad news about the valves at the end of the day.
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