Post by Baizy on Jun 13, 2022 15:16:29 GMT -5
Apr 11, 2022 9:48:44 GMT -5 @yujisaeki said:
Yuji, I have no idea why it's working that way. You have a lot of variables going on that could cause issue here and they are all fairly complicated on the electrical parts bin side of things. At the risk of sounding dumb, why not just run it with the CDI and call it good?
My brother left it on this land in 2013 and it was never touched until I began rebuilding it. It's all stock now except for the alternator pickup, just to eliminate anything I did. However...it won't rev past 2500RPM. You can hear it take in more gas and air, but the ECM is not telling the coil to fire faster. It is staying at 2500RPM max. I just tested the TPS and SE, they react perfectly fine, though the 5V from the ECM to the SE is *extremely* erratic...I'm wondering if the alternator is the issue. It most definitely has issues charging and can kill itself until warmed up, at which it'll idle and 12.2V charge, but flying down the road (if I use NCY CDI) I can get 14.2V out of it. Voltage goes up with RPMs. Idle is set for 2000RPM on the nose. I tried to put a small load on it (stock lighting too) and it made no difference in trying to change the alternator charge rate. This is also a brand-new ECM, the transformer near the pins in the last one was faulty and died over time (it was bad in 2009 when ECM was new, had to trick the ECM into starting by yanking main relay, start it, throw main back in). I can only think of it being the alternator. The pulse-generator was so bad that I replaced it with a cheap GY6 pulse-generator, metal-crimped the lead and insulated it. The ignition coil peak ends up with 180V+, well within spec, and the pulse-generator on kick gives 7V+, well within spec. I double-checked ECT just to see if it was being sent to limp mode from thinking it is overheated, it is fine. Baffled.
Sorry for such a late reply, I wasn't notified of a reply by the forum backend and I got caught up in life. Very much appreciate the feedback. This Ruckus had so much wrong with it. Bent rims, destroyed transmission gears&seal, crankshaft is rusted and keeps leaking past new oil seals, clutch and variator completely worn out, belt toast, painted frame rusting, gas tank shot, fuel level sensor foobar, bad ECM, fuel pump totally crap, all bearings needed replacing, et cetera...*sigh* I've enjoyed rebuilding it though. Just need new rims, crankshaft replacement (easy), and this issue to be fixed. With NCY CDI and 10W40 (yes, I know, wrong weight), I can near 9800RPM on a slightly downward slope.
You'd wonder why I wouldn't just buy another or simply buy something else, but I wanted to teach myself small-engine repair and what-not, worth it to me.
Edit: Without revving up, voltage running is 12.2V-12.6V...rev up, voltage goes up. After riding, usually idle voltage is up to 12.6V-13V but no higher, usually. Definitely thinking alternator is at least a problem...it was very rusted up, had to use an aluminum wire brush to clean up.
Edit: To everyone who has this issue...it could be the AC pickup going to the ECM from the alternator/stator. 5 wires, W/Bl, W/G, W/R, Br/Y, G, on the wiring diagram it would be called “HOLE IC”. The CDI inside the ECM is powered by the AC current from these wires. Aftermarket (NCY) CDI would be fine. Without it, it wouldn't accelerate, WOT would pop (more air and gas going through but without AC-CDI inside the stock ECM working the ignition wouldn't fire faster than a pre-determined rate, resulting in extra gas which would pop on exit), alternator would maybe keep 12V, slowly die until warmed up, opening throttle would get the alternator charging better (voltage increase, directly proportional to RPMs!). Just need new alternator for my situation. It could also be the flywheel or wiring, so double-check!
For your battery voltage I do have a similar situation where my idle voltage is quite low (around 12.2-12.6, but comes up rather quickly to 14ish when I rev it up), as far as I am concerned if my headlights get brighter when I rev it, the stator is working correctly haha