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Post by miloliidave on Feb 3, 2018 23:18:43 GMT -5
Ok ...fixed it!
I found a youtube on how to clean your carb and jets...it was pretty easy...just make a nice clean space to disassemble the carb and it parts...
I put it back together and it works just fine.
My guess (since my issue was induced by a jarring bump I hit) is that the float needle was stuck...didn't hurt to clean it out.
Try it...it is easy...go slow...if you are scared about putting it back together correctly take pictures on your phone as you take it apart...
I didn't need to.
Good luck Rucksters
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Post by Gama on Feb 22, 2018 23:37:31 GMT -5
Check the airbox as well. My ruckus Boggs out and when I start picking up speed and around 30-35 that's when my ruckus gets to her old self and starts running but as soon as I slow down or come to a stop, it's hard to get her back up and running. Mods weights, pulley, CDI, straight pipe. I ran a straight pipe on mine for like a month and I was driving and came to a stop and tried to go and no acceleration. Full throttle and it barely moves under load hits top speed after awhile and runs good till I come to a stop. I cleaned the carb and jets and float looks okay and still runni g like this. I put the old muffler back on and same thing. New spark plug same thing. Fuel pump seems good and filter is good any ideas
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Post by dd543212345 on May 5, 2018 13:02:31 GMT -5
This is probably the most common issue Ruckus owners will face. I see this issue popping up everywhere consistently. The ethanol in modern fuel will inevitably clog your fuel system if maintained improperly. It's not a huge deal nor a terribly complicated process to avoid but disassembly, cleaning and reassembly of the carb/fuel system are kind of a pain in the "edit profanity". Your best bet (IMO) is to store your Ruckus with about 1/4 - 1/2 a tank of stabilized fuel. I don't store my Ruck for long enough to need to go through this process but for my other small engines this is my procedure: - Start with a ~1/2 full tank
- Add the appropriate amount of stabilizer for a full tank
- Top off fuel tank
- Run/Use until you're between 1/4 - 1/2 full and you're done
Leaving some fuel in the system greatly reduces ethanol buildup and the additives will ensure the entire fuel system is treated while in storage.
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Post by Acoustx on Jul 16, 2018 20:54:10 GMT -5
I have had the same issue with mine. it starts, idles, runs fine till about 15mph (1/2 throttle) then bogs down if i try to go any faster. So far I have changed the engine oil, gear oil, air filter, fuel, fuel filter, fuel pump (this seems to solve the problem with many others, but not mine), new battery, cleaned the carburetor, I re-gapped the spark plug, and I just got done changing the ignition coil, and it still is not fixed! I'm running out of ideas with this thing! Ill keep you posted if I figure it out, but I cant believe how persistent this problem is.
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Post by Acoustx on Aug 13, 2018 22:26:47 GMT -5
*******I FIXED IT!!!********
Turns out the problem was a few small cracks in the hose that goes between the air intake and the top of the carb. Im ordering replacements now, but a quick fix was to just tightly wrap the hose in electrical tape. Immediately solved the problem. I hope this helps resolve the problem for someone else.
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diggs
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 16
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Post by diggs on Aug 15, 2018 17:12:12 GMT -5
Great to hear - I think that boot is a very poor solution for this setup.
I'd much rather see a cast aluminium manifold as I've seen on every other minibike I've played with, I already have the metal one for my PC20 upgrade down the track.
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Post by Me 2 on Sept 8, 2018 15:20:28 GMT -5
Sometimes its the most simple thing. What was stopping my acceleration was my radiator fluid. The ecu went into protection mode when the motor got too hot. Added fluid, she runs perfect.
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Post by miloliidave on Dec 13, 2018 18:24:01 GMT -5
I have learned several things in the pursuit of this remedy. Here are the steps that I took:
1) Elevated the gas tank to seat level to see if my issue was with the fuel pump .... it wasn't ...replaced the fuel pump and filter anyhow.
2) Spent $160 for an OEM new carb off of ebay...(the shop here in hawaii wanted $230 and it would take two weeks to get one. Install was straight forward...make sure you get it seated well into the rubber receiver that connects it to the intake manifold...an air leak could be an issue...secure all fasteners (especially the connector to the air box...where the filter is...an air leak could cause the problem..)
3) installed a new airfilter ...and noticed that the last time I installed one I misaligned it...the air filter did not seat well against the plastic lips that hold it in place...this caused and air leak around the filter and I a convinced that it contributed to my "bogging" issue. I had read about an after market filter that replaces the airbox....sticks out to the side...in the write-up it says that "you will need to rejet your carb when you install this airfilter...thinking about this, I realized that the OEM air filter and air box are "tuned" so that the correct fuel/air mixture will occur in the carb for optimal performance. A leak in the airbox or a poor install of the air filter could radically change the airflow and therefor the mixture in the carb. So, check your air filter and air box for correct alignment with the pieces that they mate to.
The Scoot seems to be back to its self now...These are straight forward to work on ...so dive in and do it. Take pictures if you are unsure of your ability to put it back the way it was as a reminder.
Enjoy
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Post by cpt. on Aug 5, 2019 17:56:14 GMT -5
I have a ruckus 2007 have only ridden it 250 miles the rest of the time it is a POS parked in shed . Have tried all you guys talk about, and it still a POS. Total waste of money, really ticks me off at Honda. It's a dam scooter why all the hardware and electric crap.
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Post by JimmymmiJ on Mar 22, 2020 1:55:10 GMT -5
My 2012 is doing the same thing. Bogging from mid to high range. Found that if I run it without the air box hooked up to it, the thing runs fine which leads me to believe it’s not getting enough air. The bike only has 70 miles on it as it’s my sons and he lost interest in it so the air filter is still very clean. Going to replace the filter anyway and see if that works. Was wondering if the TPS could have anything to do with it?
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Post by Chang_McGrady on Jun 9, 2020 14:01:10 GMT -5
I had to reset the ECU and it solved my problem. It was a 3 minute procedure by shorting the one wire. It's a quick check to make sure it's not the electronics.
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Post by Jim B. on Jul 23, 2021 12:14:39 GMT -5
I have a temporary fix that seems to work well on mine. I have had the same problem with my 2013 Ruckus. It would bog some taking off and was really slow accelerating between 25 to 30 mph. After 30 it would pick back up and run fine. I believe it to be an intake air leak and here is why. Try this to be sure. On the air box intake hole in the bottom restrict the airflow just a little. I used an old variator roller because it fits tightly there and air can still flow around and through it. I noticed a big improve in performance and the bog was gone. I still need to find the air leak as I don't see an obvious one but this restored my performance until I can check the system over closer. Hope this helps.
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Post by Gkhan on Sept 9, 2021 13:21:37 GMT -5
Where can I get a fuel pump for my ruckus in the lower mainland that's not 175$ like at holeshot shipped from calgary
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Post by Baizy on Sept 13, 2021 11:12:09 GMT -5
Where can I get a fuel pump for my ruckus in the lower mainland that's not 175$ like at holeshot shipped from calgary I'll ship you one from Vancouver Island. I have like 4 of them.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2021 11:17:04 GMT -5
Mine won't accelerate at all. If I hook up an aftermarket (NCY) CDI, it works wonderfully. Without that, it'll idle only. If I try to give it gas, it'll act like it wants to accelerate (more air and gas are coming in), but the timing seems like it is being kept the same, unchanging. It'll pop a tiny bit if I keep it open like that. The ECU is brand new and reset, ECT is fine and verified. I did test the coil and pickup voltages, they're right on spec (240V and 7V), TPS within spec too, Starting Enrichment is as well.
The only things I can think of:
- The Ignition Pulse Generator on the Alternator/Stator was rusted beyond repair, it wouldn't fire. I cut it off, crimped a new one on from a GY6 clone stator for $15, same resistance, works fine with aftermarket CDI.
- Cheap Chinese fuel pump, but works fine with aftermarket CDI@55mph.
- The Fuel Level Sensor shorted temporarily to let me know to keep an eye on my 1L temp-tank, just for purposes of rebuilding.
- The carburetor is a Chinese clone (**** OEM prices). Works fine with aftermarket CDI.
- Starting Enrichment Valve is from the Chinese clone carburetor, but is within spec.
- Throttle Position Sensor is from the Chinese clone carburetor, but is within spec.
If you're familiar with signals, I'd describe the profile of the engine running as a sawtooth wave, low to high. Sounds like it, feels like it. Instead of a constant running, it feels like it is being 'blipped alive'. I'm thinking the work-around for the bad alternator/stator is a patch that works for the aftermarket but won't on a stock ECM for whatever reason. I eventually aim to replace it, but jeez... $15 for a GY6 stator (new) versus $250 for an OEM... also looking to eventually replace Flywheel, it was rusted up pretty badly and cleaned, but only as a last resort... Seems to generate enough power fine.
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Post by Baizy on Dec 31, 2021 12:46:09 GMT -5
Yuji, I have no idea why it's working that way. You have a lot of variables going on that could cause issue here and they are all fairly complicated on the electrical parts bin side of things. At the risk of sounding dumb, why not just run it with the CDI and call it good?
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Post by badruck on Jan 12, 2022 20:30:10 GMT -5
I have a 2016 Ruckus- 900 miles. I had been driving it and it seemed fine. Stopped and got gas one day and it hasn’t been back on the road since. It will start- and idle but when open the throttle it chokes out! I removed the carb not once but twice- cleaned the entire carb and jets and still no solution. Please help if you can.
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Post by Baizy on Jan 15, 2022 10:50:33 GMT -5
Hey Badruck, have you looked into replacing your fuel filter lately? If you got some bad gas when you fueled up it may have been the last straw making it so you got just enough gas to keep up with idle, but not enough to run wide open.
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Post by Metruck22 on Feb 20, 2022 20:41:12 GMT -5
Hey Badruck, have you looked into replacing your fuel filter lately? If you got some bad gas when you fueled up it may have been the last straw making it so you got just enough gas to keep up with idle, but not enough to run wide open. Bro, same thing happened to me after getting a full tank of gas. Were you able to figure it out?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2022 9:48:44 GMT -5
Yuji, I have no idea why it's working that way. You have a lot of variables going on that could cause issue here and they are all fairly complicated on the electrical parts bin side of things. At the risk of sounding dumb, why not just run it with the CDI and call it good? My brother left it on this land in 2013 and it was never touched until I began rebuilding it. It's all stock now except for the alternator pickup, just to eliminate anything I did. However...it won't rev past 2500RPM. You can hear it take in more gas and air, but the ECM is not telling the coil to fire faster. It is staying at 2500RPM max. I just tested the TPS and SE, they react perfectly fine, though the 5V from the ECM to the SE is *extremely* erratic...I'm wondering if the alternator is the issue. It most definitely has issues charging and can kill itself until warmed up, at which it'll idle and 12.2V charge, but flying down the road (if I use NCY CDI) I can get 14.2V out of it. Voltage goes up with RPMs. Idle is set for 2000RPM on the nose. I tried to put a small load on it (stock lighting too) and it made no difference in trying to change the alternator charge rate. This is also a brand-new ECM, the transformer near the pins in the last one was faulty and died over time (it was bad in 2009 when ECM was new, had to trick the ECM into starting by yanking main relay, start it, throw main back in). I can only think of it being the alternator. The pulse-generator was so bad that I replaced it with a cheap GY6 pulse-generator, metal-crimped the lead and insulated it. The ignition coil peak ends up with 180V+, well within spec, and the pulse-generator on kick gives 7V+, well within spec. I double-checked ECT just to see if it was being sent to limp mode from thinking it is overheated, it is fine. Baffled.
Sorry for such a late reply, I wasn't notified of a reply by the forum backend and I got caught up in life. Very much appreciate the feedback. This Ruckus had so much wrong with it. Bent rims, destroyed transmission gears&seal, crankshaft is rusted and keeps leaking past new oil seals, clutch and variator completely worn out, belt toast, painted frame rusting, gas tank shot, fuel level sensor foobar, bad ECM, fuel pump totally crap, all bearings needed replacing, et cetera...*sigh* I've enjoyed rebuilding it though. Just need new rims, crankshaft replacement (easy), and this issue to be fixed. With NCY CDI and 10W40 (yes, I know, wrong weight), I can near 9800RPM on a slightly downward slope.
You'd wonder why I wouldn't just buy another or simply buy something else, but I wanted to teach myself small-engine repair and what-not, worth it to me.
Edit: Without revving up, voltage running is 12.2V-12.6V...rev up, voltage goes up. After riding, usually idle voltage is up to 12.6V-13V but no higher, usually. Definitely thinking alternator is at least a problem...it was very rusted up, had to use an aluminum wire brush to clean up.
Edit: To everyone who has this issue...it could be the AC pickup going to the ECM from the alternator/stator. 5 wires, W/Bl, W/G, W/R, Br/Y, G, on the wiring diagram it would be called “HOLE IC”. The CDI inside the ECM is powered by the AC current from these wires. Aftermarket (NCY) CDI would be fine. Without it, it wouldn't accelerate, WOT would pop (more air and gas going through but without AC-CDI inside the stock ECM working the ignition wouldn't fire faster than a pre-determined rate, resulting in extra gas which would pop on exit), alternator would maybe keep 12V, slowly die until warmed up, opening throttle would get the alternator charging better (voltage increase, directly proportional to RPMs!). Just need new alternator for my situation. It could also be the flywheel or wiring, so double-check!
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