Antig
Ruckster
Posts: 107
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Post by Antig on Apr 18, 2008 0:27:47 GMT -5
It takes a very good welder to weld that casting without significant distortion, i would still do the metal filled epoxy instead of the welding, unless your friend is very good and you can machine the drain sealing surface Yeah, I'm going to try to repair it myself as soon as I swap the spare engine in there. What maintenances should I do to the new engine when I put it on? Add radiator fluid, change oil...what else?
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Post by Dandy Dan on Apr 29, 2008 15:57:58 GMT -5
Just the usual stuff....coolant, oil, check valves, new plug, check gear oil.
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Post by wilson on Apr 10, 2015 19:04:35 GMT -5
I did the exact thing around 6 months ago. My crank case cracked almost identical to the pics posted. I did a few things different to fix mine. This was the process:
I let the oil drain out for 24 hours. I hit the cracks with a mixture of laundry detergent and water. Then with acetone including the drain bolt. I got a toothed file and roughened up the area real good, all around all cracks.
This is where I went a different route from a previously posted solution. I put the drain plug back in to the point where the cracks JUST started to widen and the drain plug was snug. I used JB weld marine epoxy to seal the cracks making sure to get the weld in there, I JB welded the drain plug on the crank case so the whole thing was sealed shut. I was very generous w the amount of epoxy I used around drain bolt. I let the epoxy sit for 24 hours.
The reason I sealed the drain plug is because there is another way to drain the oil in the front of the crank case. I have changed my oil 3 times with this method and put on a few thousand miles and it works for me as a temporary solution as the JB marine weld is holding up solid so far. My biggest suggestion is not to rush the prep before applying the JB weld because it will not hold if not properly cleaned and toothed.
Now, I have a question: I can get my hands on a used crank case in good condition. Although my solution is holding up nicely I would feel better replacing it. How hard is it to pull out the crank case without swapping the entire engine? I've done a lot of work to my ruckus over the years so I'm fairly confident as ruckus are pretty simple. This is the only area I'm not sure of, Is this possible to do?
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