staib
Junior Ruckster
Posts: 70
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Post by staib on Feb 11, 2008 15:15:23 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure the first picture (of the rocker arm) is just the way it was. The spring thing normally keeps both rocker arms all the way to the 'left'... there's no room for wiggle.
To expose the top shims you obviously need to push both rocker arms all the way to the right...
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Post by chanito on Feb 11, 2008 17:36:17 GMT -5
so thats why they are $100 each then!! zoomer f1 technology... so now do you thing they could be good for 14,000rpm? No, but an honest 10k is easily reach with that set up ;D ;D
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Post by bigskybassguy on Mar 31, 2008 11:47:17 GMT -5
Thank you, Timber, for this great documentation.
I was sweating doing this, and it turned out to be quite easy. The HARDEST part of the process is trying to re-figure out how the floorboard's little front bracket-screw-in plate thingy went back together (For anyone's information, the metal bracket screw-plate tabs go in BETWEEN the floorboard and the front plastic splash guard.)
BTW. My `07 rice rocket has 2100 miles on it, and the the valves were right on spec. I'll check them again in another 3,000 miles, I guess.
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Post by Dandy Dan on Mar 31, 2008 21:35:02 GMT -5
Congrats bigskybassguy! Once you've done it once successfully it's way easier in the future. And yes that front bracket thing is a major pain!
About your valves, any settling that occurs with your new engine breaking in should be over by 2100 miles....so it's safe to say that your Ruckus is behaving and it should change very slowly from now on. I would say checking it in another 3000 miles would be nice of you but you could probably leave it longer if your Ruckus continues to run well. Doesn't hurt to check though.
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Post by bigskybassguy on Apr 1, 2008 16:05:25 GMT -5
Wow. Cool. Thanks for that input. I though i read somewhere here that these valve need some adjustment TLC at around 1500 mis, then maybe 10,000, then probably never again. So, thanks for that.
My bride has her own Ruck, but she's at only half the mileage of mine. Let's hope her's behaves as well as mine seems to be. Thanks again you guys.
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Post by ruckedup on Sept 2, 2009 9:08:45 GMT -5
I wish when other people did how to's they did them as clear and detailed as you!!
So thanks!!!
Here"s my portion of help:
----------------------------------------------------------------------- Part number Description (Shim Size) ----------------------------------------------------------------------
14901-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.200)
14902-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.225)
14903-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.250)
14904-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.275)
14905-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.300)
14906-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.325)
14907-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.350)
14908-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.375)
14909-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.400)
14910-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.425)
14911-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.450)
14912-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.475)
14913-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.500)
14914-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.525)
14915-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.550) 14916-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.575)
14917-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.600)
14918-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.625)
14919-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.650)
14920-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.675)
14921-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.700)
14922-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.725)
14923-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.750)
14924-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.775)
14925-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.800)
14926-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.825)
14927-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.850)
14928-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.875)
14929-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.900)
14930-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.925)
14931-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.950)
14932-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (1.975)
14933-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.000)
14934-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.025)
14935-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.050)
14936-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.075)
14937-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.100)
14938-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.125)
14939-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.150)
14940-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.175)
14941-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.200)
14942-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.225)
14943-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.250)
14944-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.275)
14945-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.300)
14946-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.325)
14947-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.350)
14948-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.375)
14949-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.400)
14950-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.425)
14951-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.450)
14952-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.475)
14953-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.500)
14954-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.525) 14955-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.550)
14956-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.575)
14957-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.600)
14958-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.625)
14959-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.650)
14960-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.675)
14961-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.700)
14962-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.725)
14963-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.750)
14964-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.775)
14965-KT7-013 SHIM, TAPPET (2.800)
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Post by ANDREWSANTEIRO on Jan 30, 2010 0:58:30 GMT -5
Step 4 - Checking the GapsSPECIFIED GAPSINTAKE (TOP) - .10mm give or take .03 mm(.004 GOT .001 in) EXHAUST (BOTTOM) - .19 mm GOT .03 mm (.007 GOT .001 in) Ok , so the size of the shim I need to buy, (A), should be the measured gap between the rocker and the shim that's in their now MINUS the specified gap( the quoted above> Same for a Metropolitan??) PLUS the size of the shim that's in there now, right? And I am assuming that only the new shim is put in place, not the new and old.?
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Post by ANDREWSANTEIRO on Jan 30, 2010 10:32:34 GMT -5
Other question: My feeler gauges come in increments of .05,.06,.07.08,.09,.10mm, but then start jumping in increments of five to .15,.20,.25mm. And if I am reading correctly, the specified gap for the exhaust should be .19mm. Is this where the give or take (GOT) comes into play? or do I need a more precise feeler gauge?
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Post by bowery4 on Jun 11, 2013 0:50:48 GMT -5
Hi, I have a 2002 Zoomer with 13000 kilos on it (I am in Thailand). In any case, I have never done this and my motor is getting a bit ticky and hard to start (although I kind of think that problem is the autochoke as it runs good when it is warmed up a bit, I have cleaned that before which is kind of a pita in my opinion but I am planning on doing it again). I have a couple of questions after reading this thread. 1. The CRB shims that can be used...is it for a CRB 150 rr (they sell those here I think, so I maybe able to find them)? 2. Airbox warpage: mine is pretty old and has some. just doesn't fit together like it used to and I have sealed it up with some silicone but they are working on roads here and it is really sandy and it gets dirty quick! I changed the filter about 9 months ago and have cleaned out in there a few times since (funny thing is I never had these problems before all the sand, you should see the way they build roads here, lol very effed up) anyway, getting parts here is problematic and I am planning on leaving here with in a year and selling my bike (which I will miss!). But my question is this, what are the vacuum tubes to the airbox and should they have any kind of sponge filters in them? The very front one does right now and has had it for a long time (I even forget if I put it there 6 years ago or not, I might of) it seems if I block that hole the bike starts way easier though (although I have no idea if it would affect performance at all. Anyway thanks for the input and cheers.
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Post by bowery4 on Jun 16, 2013 1:23:05 GMT -5
sorry, but bump
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Post by chanito on Jun 16, 2013 10:24:17 GMT -5
Yes you need to adjust your valve gap, covering the hole in the top of the carb will richen the mixture so it is easier to start.
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Post by bowery4 on Jun 16, 2013 11:10:49 GMT -5
Thanks Chanito! Now I just need to find a set of shims here, any idea if CBR rr 125 (or 150) spacers will work? I am not sure the part numbers are the same even (especially here in Bangkok)
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Post by chanito on Jun 16, 2013 15:01:52 GMT -5
They should, most Honda engines share the valve adjustment shims, but I am not sure
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Post by bowery4 on Jun 19, 2013 23:53:17 GMT -5
They should, most Honda engines share the valve adjustment shims, but I am not sure Thanks again Chanito! You are excellent. Anybody know the diameter? There are many Honda scooters bikes here (and they are made here), I may have an easier time if I can just go to any honda dealer and pick up a set for a cheaper price (than CBR shims, which I am having trouble finding now).
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Post by bowery4 on Jul 4, 2013 10:21:00 GMT -5
Hi again, an update, so I finally got the parts and tools (although finding a bent set of feeler gauges was impossible and I had to bend the set I bought by hand, breaking a couple (luckily not important ones, in the process) to do this. It seems a lot of the Thai made Honda's have a adjustment made by a nut, so cbr shims were the only option. I did find out from investigating around the web that indeed crb 150s (and other higher cc cbrs as well, do infact share our shims). The shims are 7.48 in diameter. So, I tried to order a set of them from my most local Thai Honda dealer. You really can't do that here though (plus for some reason they are expensive!), so I had to take apart my bike and measure and go back and give them the measurements plus the shim size and see if they had them in stock.
Just one problem, the top shim was SO tight that I couldn't get the rocker arm back over it. The bottom shim was actually within specs. It is a 2.15 and the top shim was the same. So what to do? I thought about it for a while and decided to use some cheap plasticine (childrens clay that doesn't harden) and make an imprint in the top of the hole where the valve sits and try to measure it (including the indent from the top of the valve rod) with my cheap plastic micrometer. I got a reading of 1.55mm or thereabouts so I went to the dealer again and asked for that size minus the 10mm (space), 1.45, they didn't have it the closest thing was a 155mm shim. So I came home with 155,158 and 162 ( I think, I've lost this one, now). I brought them home and tried them out. Well, nice try lol, seemed like a good idea at the time.
They were all too loose so I used them one to measure against and got 2.03-10mm or 1.93 for my reading. Great! so I had my GF call and see if they had that in stock, no. They don't order for people either (I suppose they want to do the work or something...ha I have had 3 Thai mechanics one at this same dealer eff up my bike already thanks)! So I called around a bunch of places and finally found one that had a full stock of 185-240. I went there yesterday and they are closed on Wednesday! Today I picked three up and 1.925 was the target size plus I bought one larger and one smaller (next size up and down BTW, the store is a Honda Wing Dealer and it was super nice, cool modern architecture, wish I took my camera). Installed it in there and it fit well, maybe just slightly tight on the feeler gauge but the 10mm seemed okay.
I took it out for a test drive as it started up okay (although my battery is drained and I had to kick it. it was really hard to start the last few times I rode it, I use it everyday for short trips around my neighborhood). I ran it for a bit and rode it for about 1/2 a kilo and it stalled. Again. Was a bit hard to start after too, even when fairly warmed up. It also stalled one time on my way back and was hard to start again.
I will try the smaller size tomorrow but it sounded ticky too (I didn't put the plastics on and the gas tank was shaking a bit but the tick seems to be there, under the valve cover) which I thought would be an exhaust shim being wrong (am I wrong about that?).
So I have a few questions, does the engine sound sort of more ticky if it is naked? Would 91 octane do that (it is the lowest octane available here), and I would think that at the 88 octane rating of our bikes like and the relative age on my bike (11 years)a little "knock" would be kind of normal (part of the reason I never adjusted the valves before). This tick also sounded different sort of higher pitched.
Or could the fact that I replaced the exhaust a few months back with a 2006 (with a cat converter) have something to do with it (it was hard to find any Zoomer exhaust and this one is slightly used but looked good and newish? I also have never moved the hoses much before except when I cleaned the carb a couple years back. If one of those was leaking would that cause stalling? And trouble starting?
Should I, just try the slightly smaller shim (I will be taking it apart to measure again)? be looking for an air/exhaust leak, those rubber hoses look a bit suspect? Clean the carb again? with parts being so hard to come by here, I would hate to screw it up or break a little plastic or rubber piece, I remember doing it before and it is kind of a pain, so I am hesitant). I understand it may need to be cleaned (plus I will need to reset the ecm which I forget how to do). I have no idea what I could do if it is the exhaust? drill some holes? haha I have no way of making sure it is not plugged up or of cleaning it out (for that matter). I just want to get it to run decent. Any opinions will be appreciated. Thanks again.
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Post by chanito on Jul 4, 2013 11:28:38 GMT -5
Now it sounds like your carb need adjusting, but you did good on the valve adjustment as that will make it easier to start, check the needle and diaphragm and also the spring, make sure the needle slide freely and all the jets are clean
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Post by bowery4 on Jul 5, 2013 8:22:53 GMT -5
Thank you again Chanito. It is running good today, started right up and I didn't have to change the shim (rechecked), no more stalling either. It could be that I just clogged it up a bit as my gas tank was emptied when I was checking the shims in the first place, I stupidly lifted it a bit too high and left it like that and went to the dealer, when I came back it had broken the fuel hose from the tank to the fuel filter and spilled it all over the floor, lol. I was an auto mechanic in the 80s and early 90s you would think I would know better hah! It might have just been bottom of the tank residue hanging in there a bit (although the carb looked clean when I got into doing that, later)I have never run it empty or emptied it on purpose before.
Anyway now, it has more pick up too. I did clean the carb up a bit (without removing it which is a bit tricky and less through) but I don't want to be replacing things I can't replace (they don't sell new 50cc Hondas or new parts here and in fact they aren't technically legal, although they are everywhere anyway, you just have to stay off the main streets which are kind of dangerous anyway, so I don't even need it to be licensed or insured for that matter). It looks pretty clean for not having done it in a while. The diaphragm probably needs replacing as it is kind of stiff but not cracking or ripped or anything, the O ring part of it was a bit hard to get back in the grove though. The only real thing I did to it was turn the idle up half a turn or so. I am not sure why or when but when I replaced the throttle cable about 9 months ago I must of slowed it down a bit. I always kind of wanted to turn that idle speed screw at the bottom but don't have an option to buy a tool for that (it has always run a bit rich). It still goes 56 or 7 kph (it used to top out at 60 when i bought it and for the first year or 2 but I have never played with weights or done anything to the variator either). So I am happy with the repair at this point. Thanks again and cheers.
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Post by metman on May 21, 2014 21:01:07 GMT -5
I hate to revive a very helpful, yet quiet thread... but...I just picked up a 2007 met with 1700 miles on it, and for the last 3 weeks it's been a blast...up until 4 days ago and now at 2012 miles. got hard to start, and spitting fuel out of the filter side of the carb, Upon reading the help threads here I was able to find someone with similar issues and said that a valve adjustment fixed it for them, so I went out with feeler gauges etc, tore the bike down, and low and behold the exhaust is set at 0.10 and the intake is so tight I can't get any feeler gauge to go in at all. The current shim sizes are Intake 230, and Exhaust 212. I was told by the previous owner the 1000 mile valve service has not been done. Could anyone give me an idea on where to begin here shim wise, and any other pointers? It would be greatly appreciated. Awesome write up and excellent pics.
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Post by chanito on May 22, 2014 16:38:06 GMT -5
Put the exhaust shim on the intake and see if you have any clearance, if it more than .10 millimeter the you have to add the difference to the 212shim size (i.e. if the new clearance is .16 you will add the .06 to the 2.12shim so you will need a 218 shim) hope that helps
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Post by metman on May 22, 2014 18:15:29 GMT -5
Put the exhaust shim on the intake and see if you have any clearance, if it more than .10 millimeter the you have to add the difference to the 212shim size (i.e. if the new clearance is .16 you will add the .06 to the 2.12shim so you will need a 218 shim) hope that helps Tried that theory, and still wouldn't start, Went to Honda and got a 2.00 shim and popped it in and it started right up, per their advice I got another 2.00 for the exhaust... but it created a terrible idle valve rattle. So..I'm back on the 2.12 for the exhaust for now.... going to have to try and find a 2.02. Thanks for the help chanito.
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