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Post by cellarrat on Aug 22, 2008 15:26:09 GMT -5
First of all, I wanted to thank everyone who has posted how-to's on frame extensions, Varroa, A-bomb and all. It made me feel comfortable taking on the task. I just finished mine and I'm really happy with the results. I did a different floorboard fill than any I've seen so I wanted to show it off. I decided to go with the 1.5" square tubing (stainless steel) cut at a 25 deg. angle and 4 bolts per side. That gave me an extension of just under 3.5" which was enough for me. The advantages were; ease of cable and hose rerouting (the throttle and rear brake cable stayed below the gas tank), not having too far a reach to the handlebars, and the scooter still fits in the truck bed with the tail gate up. I had a little trouble getting the lower bolt on the rear side of the frame in and tightened because of the small tubing size. A few minutes of sweating and swearing got it done. Then came the floorboard fill. Everybody I've seen using the stock floorboard has cut it behind the gas cap. I decided to cut it under the seat just forward of the front mounting screws. I found some 1/8" black rubber belting at O.S.H. and attached it with black painted pop-rivets. It came out looking pretty clean and can even be hidden more with your under seat storage. It is important to cut the blocks at close to a 25 deg. angle to keep the floor offset to a minimum. RUCK-ON............
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Post by renaudruck on Aug 22, 2008 16:46:46 GMT -5
Very nice job. I like the finished look of the stock floor board, and you kept it looking really nice, great idea. I'm crazy about the matte grey colour!
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Post by Kami no Chiizu on Aug 22, 2008 19:51:35 GMT -5
Nicely done.
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Post by Firegut on Aug 22, 2008 22:21:36 GMT -5
Was never going to to do this. But you have me considering it. That looks really nice.
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Post by varroa on Aug 23, 2008 11:41:21 GMT -5
you welcome.
where did you find A-Bomb's how-to? can you please post a link? i thought all of his technology was a commercial secret.
talking about commerce. how much did it cost you, with all the parts and little expenses such as paint.
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Post by cellarrat on Aug 24, 2008 14:12:32 GMT -5
You ask about A-bombs contribution. I looked around but I guess other than updates on his product development and specific question answering, I couldn't find anything other than what I gleaned from close-ups. Regarding cost. For those who have access to tools for cutting and drilling the tubing, the frame blocks are super cheap, 1.5" square tubing should not cost more than $2.00/ft. The blocks are 9" each. You only need 15" total if you make three cuts for both blocks. You need 4 additional bolts and 4 washers= about $2.50 Some Locktite(red) $2.00? $10.00 should easily cover material cost for the blocks. I used stainless steel which does not require painting but I ended up painting them anyway . $6.50 for a can of paint. If you don't have tools or the aptitude, I recommend spending the money for the A-bombs. The sheeting I bought for the fill cost $10.00/sq. ft. It took a piece that was 7"+ 24". about $12.50. Kinda high but Orchard Supply has other material that would work and is cheaper. Just look around the industrial dept. The rivets and backing washers were about $3.50. If you buy paint for the blocks, use it to paint the rivets before installing them. The whole job cost me less than $35.00 but again, I had all the tools.
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Post by ryanhaub on Oct 8, 2008 13:49:17 GMT -5
two questions
1. Where in the world do you buy metal such as square tubing to do this frame extension? I live in Richmond, VA and Lowes and Home Depot don't carry anything like that.
2. You said to use stainless steel. I was wondering if I would be ok using 1 1/2" carbon steel square tubing with .12" wall thickness. I know the chance of corrosion is greater with carbon steel but I plan on painting it with a few coats of rustoleum anyways. Are there any other reasons I should use stainless steel vs carbon steel?
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Post by thunderstRuck on Oct 9, 2008 14:27:49 GMT -5
Great work!
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Post by cellarrat on Oct 12, 2008 21:13:07 GMT -5
Ryan, you have to go to a steel supply, scrap steel, or machine shop in your area to find the tubing.Just look in the phone book. Mild carbon steel will work fine. Just prime and paint it well
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tagg
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 39
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Post by tagg on Oct 15, 2008 21:20:50 GMT -5
O.K. im stupid. I see the 1.5 inch tube you used. Awesome job by the way, i plan on doing this myself.
So how do you get a 3.5 inch extension with 1.5 inch square tube?
The way you did it keeps the frame nice and level, like it should be.
But the cut area in the floorboard obviously is wider than the tubing is thick.
Is it square tubing, or rectangular?
Like i said, im obviously just missing something somewhere. And i am in no way criticizing the mod in any way, it is a effective and original solution.
Have you had any deformation of the tube since your install? It would seem to be a point of great stress for the member.
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inkerb2b
Junior Ruckster
b2b crew... Graff since 1982
Posts: 88
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Post by inkerb2b on Oct 15, 2008 23:06:47 GMT -5
So how do you get a 3.5 inch extension with 1.5 inch square tube? The way you did it keeps the frame nice and level, like it should be. But the cut area in the floorboard obviously is wider than the tubing is thick. Is it square tubing, or rectangular? Like i said, im obviously just missing something somewhere. And i am in no way criticizing the mod in any way, it is a effective and original solution. cuz ur n0t putting the tube straight, its in angle. Measure anything on an angle and obviously its gonna be longer. Im gonna do the mod too. Following varroa method, Ima use rectangular tube (1.5x3.0) so i calculate its gona be around 5" longer
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Post by ryanhaub on Oct 16, 2008 20:19:21 GMT -5
I made a template out of a piece of paper and a protractor that I printed off the internet. Cellarrat is spot on with his instructions. An 8-9 Inch piece of 1.5" square tubing cut at a 25 degree angle will yield almost exactly 3.5" inches of extension and keeps the frame "nice and level" as you put it.
If you want more extension you can play around with rectangular tubing sizes and cut angles. Like I said, try sketching it out with paper and a protractor.
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Post by cellarrat on Oct 19, 2008 20:05:53 GMT -5
800 miles and no sign of any deformation at all. You're right though. There has to be a lot of stess on the blocks. Thats why I wonder a little about aluminum(a-bomb) vs. steel. Steel is way stronger structurally.Just make sure you use bolts as big as the ones already on there, and a good thread sealer or epoxy so they don't loosen.
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Post by Firegut on Oct 20, 2008 0:03:26 GMT -5
The a-bomb blocks are solid.
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Post by scootzilla on Nov 5, 2008 14:23:41 GMT -5
Looks great! I'm doing it this weekend. So you didn't have to buy longer throttle or brake cables? If not what exactly needs to be rerouted? I could definatly use the extra room on my Ruck.
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Post by mikedengineer on Nov 6, 2008 8:06:29 GMT -5
I must say nice job! Looks great!
Do you have any pics or drawings on the hole locations of the blocks you made or the A bomb style? I'm 6' 2" and this something I really need to do to my bike. I just don't want to drill holes and have the bike not level like how it should be.
Thanks.
-Mike
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Post by cellarrat on Nov 7, 2008 20:26:55 GMT -5
I wish I had measured the hole positions on the blocks before I installed them. My advice would be to carefully support both sides of the frame before you unbolt and pull it apart and then place the already cut blocks into position, then mark the hole positions through the existing holes with a short pencil or felt pen. Thats how I did it. As far as rerouting, as I recall (It's been a while ago now), the wiring harness needs a little bending and tweaking to keep away from hot spots, but no major moves and no need to disconnect wires. The fuel line needs to be disconnected and rerouted around something, I can't remember what, and reconnected. Just be sure to keep it away from anything that gets too hot. The throttle cable and the brake cable are both below the fuel tank and can stay there but as I recall, you need to cut off one of the cable tie down clips to make it reach. It really isn't difficult at all. Just take your time. I am 6'-4", and besides this 3.5" extension, all I,ve done is modified the stock seat to about an inch lower and back and it makes a world of difference in riding comfort. Good Luck
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Post by mikedengineer on Nov 10, 2008 7:15:42 GMT -5
Thanks for the details.
-Mike
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luke
n00b Ruckster
Posts: 0
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Post by luke on Feb 22, 2009 18:23:07 GMT -5
You ask about A-bombs contribution. I looked around but I guess other than updates on his product development and specific question answering, I couldn't find anything other than what I gleaned from close-ups. Regarding cost. For those who have access to tools for cutting and drilling the tubing, the frame blocks are super cheap, 1.5" square tubing should not cost more than $2.00/ft. The blocks are 9" each. You only need 15" total if you make three cuts for both blocks. You need 4 additional bolts and 4 washers= about $2.50 Some Locktite(red) $2.00? $10.00 should easily cover material cost for the blocks. I used stainless steel which does not require painting but I ended up painting them anyway . $6.50 for a can of paint. If you don't have tools or the aptitude, I recommend spending the money for the A-bombs. The sheeting I bought for the fill cost $10.00/sq. ft. It took a piece that was 7"+ 24". about $12.50. Kinda high but Orchard Supply has other material that would work and is cheaper. Just look around the industrial dept. The rivets and backing washers were about $3.50. If you buy paint for the blocks, use it to paint the rivets before installing them. The whole job cost me less than $35.00 but again, I had all the tools. hey cella' wicked job any chance you could make a kit and sell/ship it to me? lukeinla@gmail.com Cheers
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Post by cellarrat on Feb 25, 2009 18:32:38 GMT -5
Sorry Luke, just no time. If I had been thinking ahead, I would have made a template for the blocks and hole positions. I'm too lazy to take it apart again. Go ahead and take it on yourself. A young Jedi like you? No problem!
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